Professional Flea and Tick Control

Breaking news: EPA to mandate new labeling requirements, tighter reporting for spot-on flea and tick products

2010-03-18T07:27:00.000+01:00

By: Daniel R. Verdon, Rachael WhitcombDVM NEWSMAGAZINE

Washington -- The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) will be making sweeping changes in the labeling and approval of existing and new spot-on flea control products to stave off possible adverse reactions for dogs and cats.

In a press briefing at 2 p.m. this afternoon, EPA's Steve Owens, assistant administrator of EPA's Office of Prevention, Pesticides and Toxic Substances, announced that new labeling requirements, public education and increased monitoring for adverse events will become part of standard regulatory enforcement efforts in an attempt to fight off increasing rates of adverse events.

The press conference follows a more than year-long safety review of these products to help the agency better understand why an increasing number of adverse events were being reported. The review was initiated in April 2009 after adverse reaction reports jumped from 28,000 in 2007 to 44,000, including 600 deaths, in 2008, according to EPA. The jump may have been caused by increasing popularity and use of these products leading to greater chances of adverse events or mishandling, EPA says. While a majority of adverse event reports were considered minor, other reports were much more serious, including seizures and even death.
Noteworthy findings from the review, which was conducted by a panel of veterinary experts, includes inadvertent or intentional administration of canine spot-on flea products on cats. Smaller dogs were also more likely to suffer adverse events, Owens adds.
"(Current) label warnings simply are not working. They're inadequate," Owens says. To combat it, EPA is calling for new labeling requirements including warnings, a listing of possible symptoms, better labeling instructions, dosage guidelines for consumers and even possible restrictions of certain ingredients. No products are being banned, but Owens says EPA isn't ruling out such drastic measures in the future.

"These are products that are designed to kill fleas and ticks and they do their job, and so we urge pet owners and others who use these products to exercise caution and be very careful when they use these products on their pet," Owens adds.

Manufacturers of spot-on products have been receptive to EPA's proposed labeling changes thus far, Owens says. Labeling changes should start appearing on packages over the next several months. Companies that don't voluntarily comply with the new labeling requirements could face regulatory action, he adds.
A public information campaign was set to launch today (March 17) with a public Webcast scheduled for 4-6 p.m. Eastern time and a new information Web site for pet owners.

Fleas and ticks become active as Spring comes in so treat your pet

2010-03-18T07:19:00.000+01:00

Spring is in and the weather is getting milder.
Unfortunately ticks become active in the spring and are active through til autumn ends.
Ticks are unsightly and irritate your pet but more importantly can transmit serious disease.
Start tick prevention treatment now and continue right through until the first frosts late in autumn.

Fleas breed rapidly in the summer months.
An adult female flea can lay 700 eggs in a few
very warm weeks and they in turn can mature in just a few weeks more to lay 700 eggs each.

If unchecked you could have millions of eggs produced in a few months.
For this reason flea treatments should start early before the numbers build up.
Start in April and treat right through til October.
The best prevention treatments are spot-ons.
These are applied to the back of the animals' neck usually once monthly.
They are usually prescription only medicines. Contact your vet who will be glad to advise you on the best product to suit your pet. MICROCHIP REMINDER
Although not compulsory yet, it is highly recommended that all dogs and cats are microchipped.
It is very simple procedure taking just a few seconds to insert the chip.
If lose pet and they are microchipped you have a
you
your much better chance of getting them back safely.
Most people taking new puppies and kittens into veterinary clinics will have them microchipped if they are not already done by the breeder.
However people do forget about older pets, they too could get lost.
Don't wait until its too late, contact your vet today and arrange to have your pets microchipped.
As the saying goes "better safe than sorry".
By John Russell MVB MRCVS - Westgate Veterinary Hospital.

“Spot-On” Flea and Tick Products Can Harm Your Animal Friends

2010-03-18T07:16:00.000+01:00

Dogs and cats are plagued by flea and tick problems every year. Unfortunately, the very products that are supposed to provide our animal friends with relief from those pests are actually causing them more harm than good.

The Environmental Protection Agency receives thousands of complaints every year about flea and tick control products, especially the “spot-on” ones. These products, which claim to be able to rid the animal of any fleas, ticks, larvae and so forth, have actually triggered some rather bad health problems in a lot of animals. Skin irritation seems to be the mildest side effect, while vomiting and seizures come with the more severe cases. At least 600 deaths have also resulted in the use of these products.

The EPA notes that cats and small dogs appear to be the most vulnerable to these issues—particularly because the animal was given a product intended for a larger breed. To give an idea of how bad of a situation this is: over 44,000 reports indicated a harmful reaction to spot-on products in 2008 and nearly 29,000 were reported in 2007.

Assistant Administrator, Steve Owens, of the EPA’s Office of Prevention, Pesticides and Toxic Substances, assured that new restrictions will be placed on flea and tick products, including possible changes to some of their formulas. Owens commented that “These are poisons. These are products designed to kill fleas and ticks—and they do their jobs”. He also added that the pet owners “need to carefully read and follow all labeling before exposing your pet to a pesticide”.

If you use any spot-on flea and tick treatment on your dog or cat, some warning signs to watch out for include: burns and welts on their skin, excessive drooling, uncontrollable shaking, lost control of their legs, or other neurological problems. If your animal shows any of these signs after you administer a spot-on product, take them to the vet and get rid of that product immediately. Also, make sure to read your labels! Dog products are not to be used on cats (or cat products on dogs) and not all dog products are the same. If you have a small dog, get a product specifically labeled for small dogs.

For some great eco-friendly pet products, check out this site. They have everything available, ranging from food to collars to bath products and a lot more!

Colorado Companies Team Up With U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service to Protect

2009-12-01T03:13:00.001+01:00

WELLINGTON, Colo., Nov. 5 /PRNewswire/ -- The endangered black-footed ferrets inhabit prairie dog towns in the western U.S. This rare carnivore feeds on prairie dogs. The prairie dogs are very susceptible to plague and often entire population die-offs in towns occur. The U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service (FWS) has implemented a ferret breeding program and has been releasing trained, captive ferrets into their formerly native habitat. Unfortunately, plague can sweep through and decimate an entire prairie dog town, eliminate the food supply to ferrets thus starving the small carnivores.

A standard procedure used by the FWS is to proactively dust prairie dog burrows with an insecticide known as Deltamethrin, which kills fleas and protects the prairie dogs from being bitten by plague carrying vector.

This is where two small Colorado-based companies play a role in black footed-ferret protection. Genesis Labs, using grant funds provided by the CDC, has developed prairie dog bait, containing a systemic insecticide. The rodent eats the bait and is not harmed, but the insecticide is absorbed into the blood of the prairie dog. When fleas take a blood meal from the rodent, they are killed within a matter of minutes.

The innovative product is EPA registered and marketed by Scimetrics Ltd. Corp. under the name Kaput Rodent Flea Control Bait. It is the only product of its kind in the world. Genesis and Scimetrics are also working with the Department of Defense and have developed a similar product to control sand flies in the Middle East. U.S. troops serving there are victims of a disease known as cutaneous leishmaniasis. Much like the prairie dogs association with fleas and plague, leishmaniasis is associated with the sand fly and a rodent known as the fat sand rat.

Field testing using Kaput Rodent Flea Control Bait by the FWS initiated in 2009, with more research to be conducted next spring and summer. Preliminary results show that the bait may assist at managing flea populations within prairie dog towns. Genesis and Scimetrics are developing a second product that may be available within two years. That bait would have a longer residual effect in the blood and kill fleas over a longer period. Genesis is committed to working with the FWS in developing innovative products to help protect the endangered black-footed ferret.

For more information on Genesis
visit their website at www.genesislabs.com.

SOURCE Richland Foundation

Richard Poche of Richland Foundation, +1-970-568-7059

Animal control, MSPCA chasing away dog overpopulation

2009-12-01T03:00:00.000+01:00

Animal Control Officer David Parsons patrols the city looking for dog owners to chat with about whether their pooches are licensed, vaccinated and capable of reproducing. Time and time again, he found people who didn't have their dogs fixed, which helped explain the abundance of strays at the city pound.

But that has changed since Parsons teamed up with the Massachusetts Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals at Nevins Farm in Methuen two years ago to establish a program where animal control officers go to willing Lawrence residents' homes, pick up their dogs, and take them to be spayed or neutered at the MSPCA for half the regular cost of the surgery.

The owners don't have to leave home because Animal Control will return the dog when the surgery is done.

Before the program began, Animal Control had 12 dogs at the pound each week, on average, Parsons said.

"Today, I have only three," he said recently.

The practice of approaching dog owners face to face, combined with Animal Control's response to dog complaints, has led to the spaying and neutering of an average of 12 dogs per month, Parsons said.

Those involved are looking to take a bigger bite out of dog overpopulation by expanding the service. The MSPCA is telling people they can call to arrange for Animal Control to pick up their dogs and take them for surgery.

The overall goal is for MSPCA veterinarians to spay and neuter as many dogs as possible to reduce the number of pups, thus alleviating the burden on local shelters caring for homeless animals, according to Mike Keiley, manager of the Noble Family Animal Care & Adoption Center at the MSPCA.

"We're one of the only businesses in the world that's looking to go out of business," Keiley said.

The usual fee for the surgery is $150, but Lawrence residents only have to pay $75, or cost.

"To get a dog spayed and neutered is anywhere from $300 to $400 at a vet," said Parsons.

Compared with other local communities, Lawrence has the largest number of strays and unclaimed animals in shelters, Keiley said.

The MSPCA is funded through donations, and it recently received a $4,500 grant from the Massachusetts Animal Coalition to help pay for the spay/neuter program.

The spay/neuter package includes the surgery, rabies vaccination, a distemper vaccination and a microchip.

The other aspect of the program is teaching people about why spaying and neutering is important, Keiley said.

Keiley said the surgery helps curb behavior problems, such as spraying, marking, aggression and the desire to roam. Fixing a pet before it reaches adolescence is recommended, and it can help prevent certain illnesses, including mastitis and reproductive cancers, Keiley said.

The MSPCA is soliciting private donations to help continue the service.

"It's going to be indefinite as far as I'm concerned," Keiley said of the program. "I think we'll reapply for the grant again next year. We'll shoot for double the amount."

Surgeries can be arranged by calling 978-687-7453, ext. 6101.

Cat owners can receive help by calling the Merrimack River Feline Rescue Society, which offers a subsidized spay/neuter program for cats with their mobile clinic, the Catmobile. The Catmobile package includes the spay/neuter surgery, rabies vaccination, distemper vaccination, flea treatment, de-worming and a physical exam for $75 for male cats and $100 for female cats. To book an appointment, call 888-495-7729, or e-mail spaymass@mrfrs.org.

Borate compounds was shown to be effective in killing pests

2009-10-05T13:24:00.001+01:00

Q: I am considering buying a product called Dustmite and Flea Control made by the Ecology Works. I am allergic to dust mites and live in a carpeted apartment (can't take it out).

I sleep on my upholstered couch because I use my one bedroom for an office and studio. I want to spray as recommended on my couch and carpets after vacuuming.

Are there health risks to me if I spray on my couch as my face is not far from the back of the couch when sleeping. I wash the comforter often and have put pillow cases on the pillows that act as a barrier to the dust mites and change the top pillowcases a couple of times a week, but I am sure the dust mite debris is still coming off from the back and arms of the couch.

- G. Q., Pleasanton

A: Dustmite and Flea Control is made from boron, a naturally occurring element. It is harmful if ingested but if used as directed, it is not hazardous. It is closely related to borax, which is a combination of sodium, boron and oxygen and to boric acid, which is another very useful product.

Borax is an antibacterial and antifungal product that has been used as a cleanser and shampoo for many years. Boric acid is a crystalline material made from borax and is very effective in controlling many pests when used as a bait and mixed with normal food products.

Boric acid will also kill insects on contact: The product causes the insect to lose the waxy layer that helps it retain moisture and it dehydrates. Boric acid will remain effective for years in a dry environment. Borax will control or eliminate mold and many kinds of insects, including ants, lice, fleas and termites.

Borate compounds,when applied to wood, will kill termites and other wood-destroying insects by starvation. The product destroys their digestive enzymes and protozoa.

Because they are harmful if ingested, borate products should be kept out of reach of children or pets.

Q: A termite inspection uncovered both subterranean and drywood termites.

Something does not seem right though. They looked for pellets to confirm the presence of drywood termites. I can see how if there are pellets that means that there were termites, at some point in the past. But how does that guarantee that there are still termites active in the home?

Also, after the treatment is done and I check for pellets again, I will still see the same pellets in the same place. So how would I know that the treatment has been effective?

- P. K., San Jose

A: If pellets were found, that means there is an existing colony of drywood termites. They would not leave a perfectly edible house for no reason. They have to be evicted.

When the job is complete, make sure you clean or vacuum up all visible existing pellets. Then if you see more in the same areas, you will need to contact the company.

By: Richard Fagerlund

Heat sparks ticks and flea into action

2009-10-05T13:12:00.001+01:00

There is need for an extra care for your pets this season cos it's all over the news. according to the chronicle

TICK and flea season has come early this year in Toowoomba, the result of significantly warmer weather conditions.A warmer-than-average winter and spring have provided the perfect breeding conditions for the parasites and both pet owners and householders are being warned to stay alert.Apart from causing discomfort, both ticks and fleas can carry diseases that affect humans and pets.

Toowoomba Veterinary Hospital veterinarian Louis Gilshenan said he had seen more ticks this season then usual.“We usually see ticks after a rain and when it is warm,” Mr Gilshenan said.“Fleas are always going to start in spring; their numbers increase because their lifecycle speeds up when it is more humid.

“Flea control should be done all year and the most effective is a topical spot on treatment every month and there is also a new tablet out, which is very effective at controlling fleas.

”Mr Gilshenan said people can get their house sprayed, but should concentrate more on breaking the lifecycle by treating your animals.“With ticks, it is not 100 per cent prevention,” he said.“We advise spot on treatment every two weeks, or a tablet that is taken every two days. A tick collar works quite effectively as well.“People who live in tick areas like on the escarpment, down the range, east Toowoomba and Highfields really need to be tick aware.”

Fleas and Ticks - Facts you should know to protect you and your pet

2009-08-11T16:57:00.002+01:00

When spring comes around, you know flea & tick season has begun and it is vital to keep your pet and home flea & tick- free! Don't let these pesky parasites spoil your spring and summer!

What are Fleas? - Fleas are small wingless parasitic insects that live off the blood of mammals and birds. Frequently, fleas just bother our furry friends, but sometimes they develop allergic reactions to the fleas’ saliva. This leads to the development of rashes and even loss of fur from excessive scratching or biting. This is called flea allergy dermatitis, and when present can lead to secondary skin infections from the biting and scratching done to alleviate the itching. Even if your pet doesn't have allergic reactions to fleas, you should beware. Fleas can carry diseases such as tapeworms and Lyme disease. Although tapeworms are not actually transmitted through flea bites, the fleas often carry tapeworm eggs. When your pet bites to relieve itching, he may ingest the parasite and become infected.

Lifecycle - Fleas have four stages in their life cycle; egg, larva, pupa & adult. The length of the cycle can be anywhere from 2 weeks up to a year, depending on the environment; temperature, humidity, and food availability. One flea can produce 2,000 eggs in its lifetime and can reproduce year-round in southern climates. The prefer high humidity and temperatures is why we notice them so much more during the warm summer months.

What are Ticks? - Ticks are parasitic vertebrates that infest every class of terrestrial vertebrate, including mammals, birds, reptiles, and amphibians. A tick is not an insect. They are members of the class Arachnida, which includes spiders, scorpions, and mites. While there are many species of ticks throughout the world, only a few are known to cause problems to humans and pets in North America. Ticks are more likely to target dogs. If you live in an area populated with ticks you should keep a sharp eye on these parasites. They can transmit serious diseases (such as rickettsial diseases like Rocky Mountain spotted fever and ehrlichiosis) to dogs and even to humans.

Begin with a Game Plan that protects your pet, home and yard - The best way to help your furry companion is to get veterinary advice. There are two types of products out there for use on your pet, one is to prevent fleas from developing on your pet, and one is to treat an active infestation.

1. Flea and Tick Prevention
There are orally administered products on the market formulated to bread the flea's life cycle by preventing flea eggs or larvae from developing into adults. However, these products have no effect on adult fleas that may currently exist on your pet. Treat it by using a topical or oral flea medication will prevent the unnecessary suffering of your pet. If your pets are not on flea preventatives, there's a good chance they "Got fleas". Fortunately, a relatively new class of flea control products such as Frontline Plus, Advantage, and others has been introduced over the past few years. These treatments are used monthly and provide the best protection available against fleas.

2. Immediate Flea and Tick Medicine
Fleas spread fast, which is why immediate relief is often necessary. The distribution of fleas often involves the lower back, base of the tail, toward the back, the abdomen, flanks and neck. It may become quite generalized in severe cases, leading to total body involvement. ·

Products that will kill fleas on your pet the fastest - Applying an insecticide directly to your pet are the quickest and most efficient way to kill fleas. One of the most famous products is Frontline Spray. These kinds of sprays penetrate to the skin where most of the fleas are found. Once the insecticide comes in direct contact with the fleas, it will only take a few minutes for the fleas to die. Products that are applied to one spot on the coat, such as Advantage for dogs or cats, are also very effective in killing fleas. These products provide long term whole body protection. ·

How long will it take to get your flea problem solved? - Adult fleas are usually killed fairly quickly, while newly developing fleas in the environment surrounding your pet, may delay complete flea control. If you currently have infestations on your pet and in your home, it may take approximately 2 to 3 weeks after the initial application before you see complete flea eradication. You may need to treat your home after 2 weeks, to kill new adult fleas as they emerge from their protective pupal cocoons.

3. Home and Yard Flea and Tick Protection
If one pet in the household has fleas, assume that all pets in the household have fleas. A single flea found on your pet means that there are probably hundreds of fleas, larva, pupa and eggs in your house. When vacuuming an area you suspect may have fleas, throw the bag out immediately. Deny fleas their natural habitat by removing any piles of damp twigs or grass from around your home. Check pets for ticks before bringing them inside. Remove embedded ticks using fine-pointed tweezers and destroy them in a jar of alcohol There are wonderful products that we can recommend to treat fleas inside and outside your home. ·

Treating your house for Fleas - If you detect the problem at an early stage, treating your pet alone may be sufficient. However, it only takes a day for a female flea to mate and lay 40 to 50 eggs. These eggs will fall off your pet and soon spread in your home and yard. You will see more fleas within a few weeks, unless you make an effort to control the infestation. This can be accomplished by using the Household Foggers/Sprays, which will help prevent future infestations. ·

How To Prevent a Serious Infestation - It is helpful to use products that will help repel ticks your pet might pick up. Make sure your pet avoids sitting in grassy areas, or wet woody surfaces, to reduce the chances of picking up ticks. In addition, you should check your pet often enough to find and remove any tick that is visible to you. Nevertheless, always keep your yard well mowed and clear of woodpiles, leaves, and other debris to reduce the tick population. Also use the yard sprays frequently to avoid infestation of ticks.

4. Flea and Tick Collars
Flea & tick collars can be effective, but must be applied properly. To get the right degree of snugness, you should just be able to get two fingers between the collar and your pet's neck. Be sure to cut off any excess portion of the collar after you have properly applied it. Otherwise, the animal or other pets may try to chew on the end. CAUTION
When using flea treatment and prevention; make sure that the product you are using is specifically meant for your pet. Do not use medications indicated for dogs on cats, and vice versa, as your pet could get seriously ill or die. In case of accidental administration seek immediate veterinary assistance.

A Final Word
When battling a flea infestation it is important to keep in mind the following: ·
Constant vigilance is required; particularly during those warm summer months. ·
Keep areas where your pet(s) spend(s) a lot of time clean; vacuum, wash & mop. ·

When vacuuming remember to get the creases and crevices as these are a favorite spot for those nasty fleas. ·
Depending on your situation it may take as long as six months to become completely flea free.

Pest control advice from Nigerian pest management expert

2009-07-14T01:51:00.000+01:00

The following advice on pest control is based on a report by Vanguard posted Dec 6, 2006.

Dr Godwin Oyediji, Managing Director of Godoye Enterprises Ltd., is a pest management expert who has been practising for over 22 years.
He defined pest management as a system designed to maintain a healthy living environment and provide food safety where minimal damage can only be inflicted by pests. It entails control and prevention of pests.

“The system begins with education. Education about pest management begins with public enlightenment in terms of seminars, group meetings at rural level and public health campaigns to maintain a clean environment where there would be none or a minimal presence of habourages (pest- breeding grounds). It also involves education about an efficient garbage disposal system that would not promote multiplication of pests.”

However, even with best practices pests will still occur at minimal level., because this is a tropical region. The tropical environment promotes rapid multiplication of pests because we have high humidity and high temperatures.

Dr Oyediji said that in order to prevent pests in the environment, what was needed was the application of an Integrated Pest Management ( IPM) approach.

“This approach looks first at human and environmental safety above every other consideration. It starts with designing houses in such a way that all the entry doors into the house are built with iron which cannot be eaten by pests like rats. Other examples of what could be done to minimise the presence of pests include placement of mosquito nets or mesh at the windows; removal of stagnant water and destruction of pest habourages.”

For farmers this should include use of clean seeds. This means that whatever is being planted must be pest and disease free. They must be obtained from tissue culture laboratories by means of cloning. But in-spite of education and preventive measures, there would still be pests around.

“When education and preventive measures fail to minimise the presence of pests in the environment the IPM approach would be utilised to integrate control , educative and preventive measures in the process of pest management”.

The process of IPM involves first of all knowing the pest, and the type of damage it could cause.
“In addition to this, there is need to exercise restraint and patience when pests are noticed. Control measures should only be initiated after pests have exceeded a defined acceptable limit. When control measures are initiated, it must start from non-chemical methods such as physical methods which could include use of fly traps, rat traps, or insect traps.

“Where this is not feasible, he next step should be to introduce biological means. This includes measures like using cats to eliminate rats, or using some types of birds to eliminate certain types of insects; or using some types of bacteria to eliminate certain viruses. But if all these approaches fail, then use of chemical means could be considered.”
When it becomes inevitable to use chemical control for pest management, then chemicals known as persistent organic pollutants must be avoided. The chemical to be used should be such that it is highly biodegradable. This means the chemical must be such that it would completely decay into the environment.

“Part of pest management is bio-security which is the prevention of disease agents from being introduced into an environment usually through pests. Such pests include rats, cockroaches, flies and birds.”
For instance, bio-security could be aimed at stopping birds which carry the bacteria or virus responsible for the bird flu disease from entering the country. Bio-security also combines physical, biological and chemical means to attain food safety and disease prevention.
“Pest management as a business is still in its infancy in Nigeria.

“You need to be an agriculturist to be in this segment so as not to use what will leave undesirable residue in the end-product. A major example is pineapple which is being rejected in some European countries due to high level of ethylene used for inducing flowering or ripening.”
Another sub-sector is livestock pest control for controlling pests like lice and teaks in dogs and within poultry, cattle or pigs.

“If you are not an animal scientist or veterinary doctor, you may not be able to operate in this segment. This is because it is important for you to know the biology of the animal.”

Indoor Flea Control

2009-05-20T01:59:00.000+01:00

Indoor

Controlling cat fleas in buildings requires a variety of approaches. Before starting a control program, look through each room in the building to determine areas where larval development occurs. Flea populations are highest in places where dogs or cats regularly sleep. Flea larvae are not usually found in areas of heavy pedestrian traffic or locations that receive exposure to sunlight; they are likely to be present in areas where adult fleas have left dried blood and feces.

Sanitation. Thoroughly and regularly clean areas where adult fleas, flea larvae, and flea eggs are found. Vacuum floors, rugs, carpets, upholstered furniture, and crevices around baseboards and cabinets daily or every other day to remove flea eggs, larvae, adults, and food sources. Vacuuming is very effective in picking up adults and stimulating preemerged adults to leave their cocoons. Flea eggs can survive and develop inside vacuum bags and adults may be able to escape to the outside, so immediately destroy bags by burning or by sealing them in a plastic trash bag and placing them in a covered trash container. Launder pet bedding in hot, soapy water at least once a week.

Thoroughly clean items brought into the building, such as used carpets or upholstered furniture, to prevent these from being a source of flea infestation.

Insecticides. Several insecticides are registered for controlling fleas indoors. Sprays are only needed when you detect an infestation in your home. The most effective products contain one of the insect growth regulators: methoprene or pyriproxyfen. Fleas are known to build up resistance to insecticides, so always supplement sprays with other methods of control such as thorough, frequent vacuuming.

Use a hand sprayer or aerosol to apply insecticides directly to infested areas of carpets and furniture. Total release aerosols ("room foggers") do not provide the coverage and long-term effectiveness of direct sprays unless they contain an insect growth regulator. Treatments with insecticides other than IGRs often fail to control flea larvae because the treatment material fails to contact them at the base of carpet fibers where they develop.

Spray carpets, pet sleeping areas, carpeted areas beneath furniture, baseboards, window sills, and other areas harboring adults or larvae. Use an insect growth regulator (methoprene or pyriproxyfen) that specifically targets the larvae and has a long residual life. As soon as the spray dries, vacuum to remove additional fleas that emerge from the pupal stage in carpets and upholstery. Fleas will continue to emerge for about 2 weeks after treatment because pupae are not killed by sprays. Continue to vacuum and do not treat again for at least several weeks. Always seal and discard vacuum bags so fleas don't escape.

Outdoors

Outdoor flea populations are most prevalent in coastal localities and other places with moderate daytime temperatures and fairly high humidities. In Central Valley locations, populations can become very numerous in shaded and protected areas such as sheltered animal enclosures, crawl spaces where pets may sleep, or vegetated areas adjacent to buildings. If an infested outdoor location is not treated, the flea problem may reoccur if pets are reinfested. However, treatment of the pet with any of the preferred pet treatment products listed above will normally prevent reinfestation.

Outdoor sprays are not necessary unless you detect significant numbers of adult fleas. One way to do this is to walk around pet resting areas wearing white socks pulled up to the knee. If fleas are present, they will jump onto socks and be readily visible.

The best products for elimination of fleas outdoors are formulations that contain a knockdown material such as pyrethrin or permethrin plus an insect growth regulator (pyriproxyfen) to inhibit larval maturation. Avoid products containing diazinon or chlorpyrifos as these materials pollute waterways when they are washed into storm drains by rain, hosing, or irrigation.

Apply sprays directly in locations where pets rest and sleep such as doghouse and kennel areas, under decks, and next to the foundation. It is seldom necessary to treat the whole yard or lawn areas. Flea larvae are unlikely to survive in areas with sunlight exposure or substantial foot traffic.

Regular lawn watering will help destroy larvae and prevent development of excessive flea populations. If possible, open pet sleeping areas to sunlight by removing low-hanging vegetation

Handling Flea Emergency

2009-05-20T01:56:00.001+01:00

On the Pet

Several types of products are available to control fleas on dogs and cats. The most effective and safest products inhibit normal growth or reproduction of fleas. Use of these products must be supplemented with good housekeeping in areas where the pet rests. Contact your veterinarian for advice and assistance in selecting the best flea control product for your situation.

Preferred On-pet Flea Treatment Products. New product innovations have made it possible to effectively, conveniently, and safely prevent flea populations from building up on pets. These products are more effective and safer than the traditional insecticide dusts and sprays, which until a few years ago were the only choices for pet owners. The new products contain insect growth regulators (IGRs) such as methoprene (Precor) or pyriproxyfen (Nylar), and insect development inhibitors (IDIs) such as lufenuron (Program). The IGRs are available as flea collars or spot-ons applied to one or two places on the pet's coat. IDIs come formulated as a systemic treatment that must be administered orally and are available from veterinarians. These products work by either preventing the larvae from turning into adults (IGRs), or the eggs from hatching (IDIs), and are virtually nontoxic to pets and people. Two other new types of safe and effective chemicals are fipronil and imidacloprid, which are used as spot-ons. If properly applied before flea season begins and reapplied as necessary, any of these products can prevent a flea infestation.

Spot-on Formulations. Imidacloprid (Advantage) and fipronil (Front-Line) are available from veterinarians and are applied to the animal's skin; a single application provides flea control for 1 to 3 months. These spray and spot-on formulations are much easier to use than baths and are more acceptable to the animal. A few drops of the spot-on formula applied to the animal's shoulder blades move through the animal's coat, providing whole-body treatment. Both materials kill adult fleas within hours of the flea jumping on the animal. Also, these compounds have lower mammalian toxicity than traditionally used flea control products containing carbamates and organophosphates and are safer to use on pets. Generally the spot-on formulations can withstand bathing; check the label for specific instructions.

Systemic Oral Treatments. Several flea control products are internal medications that are administered on a regular basis in the form of a pill or food additive. Older types of medications contained insecticidal materials, mostly organophosphates, that were transported to all skin areas through the animal's blood. Newer products contain insect development inhibitors that do not have the toxicity of the older materials and are much safer to use. The insect development inhibitor lufenuron (Program) can be given as a pill (dogs) or as a food additive (cats) once a month to suppress flea populations. It can also be administered as an injection every 6 months. While this compound does not kill adult fleas, it does prevent flea reproduction. If its use is initiated early in the year before flea populations begin to build, it can prevent the establishment of a flea population in the home, though an occasional adult flea may be sighted on the animal.

Flea Collars. Flea collars containing the insect growth regulators methoprene and pyriproxyfen are virtually nontoxic to pets and humans and can be used on both cats and dogs. The growth regulator is released by the collar and distributed throughout the coat of the pet. Adult fleas coming in contact with the growth regulator absorb it into their bodies where it accumulates in their reproductive organs. Eggs laid by the adult female do not hatch. Flea collars may contain the insect growth regulator as the sole active ingredient or it may be combined with an insecticide. If the collar contains only the insect growth regulator, use another treatment, such as a spot-on product, to control adult fleas if necessary. Flea collars containing methoprene are effective for 4 to 6 months on dogs and up to a year on cats.

Traditional Insecticide Products. Until recently, pet owners had to rely on products containing conventional insecticides (pyrethrins, permethrin, d-limonene, chlorpyrifos, or carbaryl) to control fleas on their pets. These products were formulated as soaps, shampoos, powders, dusts, spray-on liquids, and dips. Although many of these products are still available, they are not as effective or as safe to use as the products listed in the section above titled "Preferred On-pet Flea Treatment Products." Some products are not safe for some pets, such as permethrin products on some cats, and small children and infants should be kept away from animals treated with any of these materials for at least a day or two.

Nonchemical Treatments. Special combs are available that help remove adult fleas from the coat of a shorthaired pet. Removing fleas may provide comfort to the animal and reduce flea breeding. Combing pets at regular intervals is also a good way to monitor the flea population and help you decide when other control measures may be necessary.

Studies have shown that neither Vitamin B1 (thiamine hydrochloride) supplements nor brewer's yeast prevents fleas from feeding; also, herbal collars and ultrasonic devices are not effective flea repellents.

How to Control Flea in Cats

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Controlling Fleas is Critical to Keeping Your Cat Healthy

Uncontrollable itching and scratching. Allergies. Tapeworm. Hair loss. Major discomfort. Even anemia and more serious health problems. Fleas hurt your cat.

Controlling fleas on your precious cat and in your cat's environment is so important in helping you deal with one of the worst external parasites your cat will ever face. Keeping your cat and your home flea-free is not only important for your cat's health, but for your own health, as well.

At the worst, even one single flea bite can lead to serious problems for your cat. Uncontrolled fleas, flea infestation, and flea bites can lead to allergies, tapeworm, anemia, etc. Diligence is an important part of taking care of your cat.

Flea Prevention is the Best Method

Prevention is your absolute best method of controlling this parasite. The two best ways to prevent infestation are excellent nutrition and keeping your cat's environment clean.

No matter how much you directly treat your cat for fleas, if you don't treat her environment and keep it clean, you won't be able to eliminate all the fleas in your home and on your cat.

Understanding the life cycle of the flea can help explain how cleanliness can reduce and eliminate this problem on your cat and in your home.

If your best flea prevention efforts don't work and you find yourself with a problem anyway, treatment and control are your next steps.

You have a number of options available to you. Most options can be classified as either conventional methods to eliminate fleas or natural flea control methods.

Indoor Cats Need Protection, Too!

Flea control is critical for all cats, even those cats who never go outside. As a matter of fact, your indoor cat and cat environment can have an even worse flea problem than your outdoor cat.

We often make the mistake of thinking that just because our cat lives indoors, he will never have any fleas. Wrong! Fleas can be brought into your home from various sources, such as other animals and even you. Fleas are excellent hitchhikers! They can hop on your clothes when you're outside and jump off once inside your home.

One flea can lay up to 20 eggs at a time and at their worse, they can lay eggs every day! So by the time you realize you have fleas, your home may already be severely infested.

Weak Cats Have Worse Flea Problems

Fleas are parasites. They prey on weakened and less healthy cats. Veterinarians commonly observe that cats in the poorest health attract the most fleas. So the healthier your cat is, the less likely you'll have flea infestations on your cat and in your home.

And if you end up with a flea problem, your healthy cat will be in a stronger position to deal with your flea control efforts.

To keep your cat healthy, feed him a diet of the highest quality cat food you can afford, make sure he gets regular exercise with safe and interactive cat toys, and keep his environment clean.

Add regular grooming to these preventative measures and you should be able to keep your cat in excellent health and flea-free.

How to Tell if Your Cat Has Fleas

The most obvious sign of a flea is the flea body itself. These are reddish-brown little guys about the size of a pinhead. They have incredible jumping ability. Fleas are often easily found around your cat's neck and base of the tail.

But just because you don't see the body, don't assume there aren't any fleas. Fleas go through various life cycle stages, and they can be present in your home in different (almost invisible) stages.

To check your cat for fleas, part his hair around his neck, back, hind legs, and near the base of his tail. You can also use a special flea comb and run it gently through these areas to check for fleas.

In addition to actual fleas, you are also looking for any tiny black flecks. These black flecks are flea excrement (or "flea dirt") and are a sure sign that these pesky parasites are around. To be extra sure that these black flecks are flea dirt, you can place the flecks on a wet paper towel. If you see a reddish brown circle form around the fleck, you've got yourself some flea droppings and a flea problem (the flecks are your cat's digested blood).

And although not every itch means that your cat has fleas, you should suspect fleas if your cat is doing a good deal of licking and chewing around her hind legs and back, especially near the base of the tail. This is often accompanied by hair loss. If your cat is licking and chewing a lot, be sure to give her a thorough inspection.

Inspecting your outdoor cats for fleas should be a regular part of your flea control efforts.

How To Get Rid of Fleas

If you find yourself with a flea problem, you'll probably need to try a couple of different flea control methods before you get rid of all of the fleas on your cat and in your home.

It's up to you to choose which treatment you think is best for your cat, you, and your home. Treatments may include using flea collars, flea combs, flea dips, flea powders, flea exterminators, and other flea control methods.

In addition to treating your cat and your home, you may also have to treat your yard.

Taking care of a flea problem doesn't mean only getting rid of the adult fleas or just the fleas you can see. You also have to get rid of all the fleas in their various life stages throughout your home and your yard. This will require diligence on your part to get rid of all the fleas, but it is well worth it for your cat's health.

Choosing a safe, as well as effective, method of flea control is critical.

Different levels of danger accompany all flea control products and methods and you should choose only the safest and most effective method for your cat and you.

Be careful when applying chemical flea treatments to your cat, as these will irritate any open sores she may have. Also, chemical flea medicines should not be used on kittens under the age of four months. These are two good reasons for trying to stick with natural flea control products, as they are generally less irritating to your cat and her skin, and overall, less dangerous for your cat, the environment, and you.

Help for Older Cats

Extra care should be taken for your older cat. If you use chemicals to control fleas, remember that your older cat is more susceptible to poisons than she was as a younger cat and her body is less able to tolerate large amounts of toxins.

Check the label to make sure that the flea control product is safe for older cats and follow the directions carefully. If you are unsure, consult your trusted veterinarian for advice.

Choosing a Professional Flea Exterminator

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If you decide to hire someone to get rid of fleas in your cat's environment, it’s important to choose only an experienced and professional exterminator.
To find someone who uses safer flea control products, ask your veterinarian for recommendations, or ask other cat owners you trust.
If you can’t get a recommendation, you can ask the exterminator you’re considering for references. Be sure to check them out. If he or she will not provide you with references, move on. This is too important to your cat’s health and yours.

Ask About the Insecticides to Be Used
The chemical insecticides your flea exterminator uses must not only be effective in getting rid of fleas, but must also be safe for you, your cat, and other pets in your home. It’s important to hire someone who uses the safest chemicals and flea insecticides available.

Ask the exterminator for written information about the flea control product he or she plans to use in your home or in your yard. If the exterminator is unable or unwilling to provide this information and answer all of your questions, find someone else.
Research the insecticides your exterminator plans to use and/or ask your veterinarian about these flea products.

Do It Yourself?
Fleabusters is a good company and uses a natural flea treatment for your home. They have offices across the United States.
You can also buy the Fleabusters Rx for Fleas and apply this professional treatment yourself.

Protecting Your Cat
Be sure to take your cat and other pets out of your home and do not return until the recommended time period.

If your yard (or a neighbor’s yard) is being treated by a flea exterminator, do not allow your cat or other pets to walk in the yard until the yard is dry. You don’t want your cat to lick the deadly ingredient off of her paws.

You may also want to consider alternative methods of outdoor flea control, first. These methods will be safer for your cat and other pets who use your yard.

Weird and Wonderful Facts About Flea

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Flea Bites

To finish, we present a few of the lesser-known facts about fleas that we've accumulated during 17 years in the business of flea control:

Flea Species

Fleas vary in size quite considerably. In the UK, the Cat Flea is one of the smallest at about 2.5mm long. On the other end of the scale, a heavily pregnant female Human Flea clocks in at an earth-shaking 4mm or so.
Elsewhere in the world, the largest known flea is the Hystrichopsylla schefferi — a flea found in the nest of a mountain beaver in Washington State, USA. It can grow up to 8mm long and has been known to bite a man's arm off at the shoulder blade (Ed's note: OK, there's a certain amount of poetic licence there — but they do grow to 8mm).
Britain's largest flea is, coincidentally, a parasite of Britain's smallest mammal. Hystrichopsylla talpae (usually found on moles) grow to a length of 6.5mm and can be found on the pygmy shrew. Pity the poor pygmy shrew; in relative terms, it would be the same as a man being attacked by a blood-sucking rat.
In nearly all species, the female is larger than the male.
The flea has a considerable number of relatives. There are more than 2000 different species of flea around the world.
63 species of flea are found in the UK. About 10 of those could be found in homes.
In our own homes, the theoretical number of flea eggs left around your house after three days of an infestation of 500 fleas is 20,000.
The flea most commonly found on cats and dogs in this country is the Ctenocephalides felis (the cat flea to you or I).
The largest ever recorded infestation of human fleas in the UK was found at a pig farm in 1986. It reportedly turned an area the size of a tennis court brown. We estimate that to cover an area of that size, this particular flea family must have numbered around 133,378,450!
It is now extremely rare to find a human flea on a human (or, for that matter, a cat or a dog) in the UK — due to increased hygiene standards.

Fleas and Health

Fleas were responsible for one of the greatest changes in the UK’s social history. The Black Rat Flea (Xenopsylla cheopis) was responsible for transmitting what was then called Black Death in the mid-14th century.
These deaths decimated the workforce of labourers in what was still a predominantly agricultural Britain. Survivors found themselves in much greater demand and they could command very much higher wages. The balance of power consequently shifted dramatically from landowner to farm worker.
Later outbreaks of Black Death — now known as Bubonic Plague — were transmitted by the same species of flea. These outbreaks caused a further 35,000 deaths in 1625 and 20,000 in 1665 — in London alone.
The flea population itself has been decimated by the outbreak of disease. Most notably when myxomatosis was introduced to kill around 100 million rabbits in the UK. Collateral damage included an estimated seven billion rabbit fleas.

Fleas and Love

The great metaphysical poet, John Donne (1572-1631) wrote an ode titled "On A Flea On His Mistress' Bosom." Here we publish a short extract:

Madam, that flea which crept between your brest
I envyde that there he should make his rest;
The little creature's fortune was soe good
That angells' feed not on so precious food
How it did sucke, how eagerly sucke you!
Madam, shall fleas before me tickle you?

Men belonging to the Lundaya Murats tribe based in Borneo can be fined one pig if caught picking the fleas from the hair of a married woman.
The male flea sports an organ approximately 2.5 times the length of its own body — the largest, relative to its size, of any insect.
Also a useful part of the male's sexual equipment are two antennae bearing sink-plunger-like suckers. It was believed that these were used to subdue the female. Top thinkers amongst the flea intelligencia now believe that the male needs these suckers just to hang on during the act. If you doubt the necessity for this, bear in mind that when a flea jumps, it does so with an acceleration roughly equal to that of the Apollo space rocket.
The female flea lays her eggs at a prodigious rate. An average of about 30-40 a day. A single female flea will probably lay around 100 eggs during her adult lifespan. That's a theoretical 50 new breeding pairs — each producing another 100 eggs. You can see how a minor problem can rapidly develop into a bad infestation.

Fleas and Music

The instrument of choice amongst flea musicians worldwide is the ukelele. It was so named in 1878 after a Portugese sailor arrived in Hawaii bearing a braguinho - a guitar-like instrument. As he played, the locals thought his fingers as nimble as dancing fleas, or in the Hawaiian language, uke (dancing) lele (flea).

Fleas and Games

One of Britain’s oldest games can trace its origins to the flea. In approximately 15 different European languages, the word ‘tiddlywinks’ translates as ‘the game of the flea.’

Fleas and Blackmail

Fleas have been used as a notably unsuccessful method of blackmail. In 1996, a transexual named Lydia Banot was jailed for eight years at the Old Bailey after blackmailing Harrods. The sex-change extortionist had threatened to release a plague of fleas in the designer clothing department unless a demand for £5 million was met. There’s optimism for you.

Review: The Most Effective Flea Control Products

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Spot-on Flea Treatments
Spot-on flea products are applied to the pet. A few drops are placed on the scruff of the neck, under the fur. Most spot-on products contain adulticides designed to eliminate adult fleas from the pet within 24 hours of application.

Benefits of spot-on flea control

Rapid relief from adult fleas on the pet
Easy to apply
Convenient monthly treatment

Oral Flea Treatments
Orally administered products can be used to eliminate both adult fleas on the pet, and flea eggs laid around the house.

Insect Growth Regulators
When a pet is treated with an oral insect growth regulator, it circulates in the animal's bloodstream. Then, if a flea bites the pet, it ingests the insect growth regulator and passes it on to its eggs, rendering them unable to hatch.

With these products, you can have confidence that even if you do see adult fleas on your pet, they will be unable to infest your house with flea eggs. This removes the need to spray insecticides around your house, and makes them ideally suited for preventative flea control.

In fact, oral insect growth regulators can also be used to eliminate an existing household infestation. In this case, once you start treating the pet, any fleas already in the house will hatch, leap aboard the pet, and die without laying any more viable eggs.

These products are available in liquid form for cats and as tablets for dogs, from veterinary surgeons only. They are given in-food once a month.

Benefits of oral Insect Growth Regulators

Effective prevention / removal of fleas in the home.
Protection for the home without the need to use household insecticides, vacuuming etc.
Easy to give, in food.
For dogs, there is a combined insect growth regulator / worming treatment available.
Convenient monthly dosing.

Adulticides
Capstar is an oral adulticide specially developed to offer the fastest removal of adult fleas from a pet. It starts working within as little as 15 minutes, and removes fleas for 24 hours thereafter.

This means that Capstar is ideal for using 'if and when' adult fleas are seen on the pet, in combination with long term use of an insect growth regulator.

Because it kills fleas so fast, Capstar can also be especially useful for those pets that are allergic to fleas.

Benefits of oral adulticide

Fastest relief from adult fleas on the pet.
Especially useful for the removal of fleas from pets that are allergic to them.

Injectable Flea Control
An injectable flea control product is available for cats. It contains an insect growth regulator which prevents fleas from being able to lay viable eggs around your home for a full six months.

When a cat is treated with an injectable insect growth regulator, it circulates in the animal's bloodstream. Then, if a flea bites the cat (which it will), it ingests the insect growth regulator and passes it on to its eggs, rendering them unable to hatch.

With this product, you can have confidence that even if you do see adult fleas on your cat, they will be unable to infest your house with flea eggs. This removes the need to spray insecticides around your house, and makes the product ideally suited for preventative flea control.

In fact, injectable insect growth regulators can also be used to eliminate an existing household infestation. In this case, once you start treating the pet, any fleas already in the house will hatch, leap aboard the pet, and die without laying any more viable eggs.

Benefits of injectable Insect Growth Regulator

Long term household flea protection from one application.
Protection for the home without the need to use household insecticides, vacuuming etc.
No need to remember monthly treatments.
Ideal for people who have difficulty giving or applying other forms of flea medication.

Household Flea Sprays
To kill fleas, we obviously need to know where they are. That’s the difficulty with household sprays. Flea eggs will be dropped around the house wherever the cat or dog goes. Problem is, you won’t always know where that is.

There is only one place we know with absolute certainty that fleas MUST spend part of their lives, and that's on the cat or dog.

That’s why it is always better to treat the pet, not the house.

How to check your pet for fleas

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A trained eye isn't usually needed to spot a heavy flea infestation. You'll probably notice your pet scratching, biting its coat, or showing other signs of discomfort. If you then run a fine metal comb through your pet's coat, you might see them crawling around on the comb afterwards.

Often though, you'll notice symptoms of a flea infestation without being able to find the culprit. That's because pets, especially cats, will groom fleas out of their coats long before you've had a chance to try and find out what's making them itch.

If you're in any doubt, carry out a simple flea check. First sit your cat or dog on a large piece of white paper. Then rub its back vigorously for a minute or so. As you rub, any flea faeces will fall onto the paper. You may need to hold the animal's tail between its legs in order to prevent it moving whilst you do this. Next pick up the piece of paper, remove any hair, and transfer the 'rubbings' onto some damp cotton wool. Leave to stand for a minute.

Flea faeces are made up of dried blood from the host they have bitten. When dry, they are dark brown flecks that can be easily confused with dirt or dead skin. But once transferred onto the moist cotton wool, they'll dissolve and turn a lighter shade of red. So, if you can now see red spots on the cotton wool, you can be certain that your pet has been in recent contact with fleas. Treatment is required.

Pest Control: About Flea Infestations

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There are over 2000 species of flea in the world. Thankfully, only the cat flea and the dog flea (Ctenocephalides felis, Ctenocephalides canis) are important to dogs and cats. Despite the name, cat fleas infest dogs just as much as they infest cats.

The problem is that fleas breed in stupendous numbers. Each female can lay as many as 200 eggs, which immediately fall off the animal, all around your home.

This is why scientists the world over agree that Integrated Flea Control, where you use one type of insecticide to kill fleas on the pet and another to kill their eggs, is the most effective way to eliminate fleas.

The degree to which you need to control fleas will vary from person to person, and from pet to pet.

You might think that a pet kept entirely indoors would be at no risk of catching fleas. But don't forget that it only takes a visit from one untreated animal to trigger an infestation in your home, so even housebound pets may require flea control.

Pets that routinely go outdoors will likely come into contact with fleas from time to time, and require regular treatment. Finally, some pets are allergic to relatively small numbers of fleas, and may need particularly stringent flea control.

Discuss the most appropriate level of flea control with your veterinary surgeon. Before you do, though, it is important that you have a basic understanding about fleas.

Flea Eggs
Whoever first coined the phrase 'breeding like rabbits' clearly didn't know much about fleas! Where a wild female rabbit may give birth to 30-40 young in a year, a female flea can lay 30-40 eggs in just one day.

Once on your pet, adult fleas take a blood meal (bite) and mate. Within 24 to 48 hours, the female starts laying her eggs. These eggs fall off the animal, wherever it goes in your house.

A typical female flea may lay 200 eggs over a period of five days. They'll hatch in a further 4-12 days, depending on the temperature and humidity.

So, two important facts here:

1. For every flea you can see on your cat or dog, there may be another 200 eggs around the house.

2. This is why experts the world over agree that the most effective flea control involves using 2 types of insecticide: one to kill adult fleas on the pet, and the other to prevent fleas reproducing.

Flea Larvae
Flea eggs hatch into worm-like larvae which move away from light and downwards. This means that they are usually found deep in the carpet pile. They tend to accumulate in areas where the pet rests, but have been observed to crawl as far as 20 feet while in this stage of the life cycle.

The lessons for effective flea control are:

1. Whilst household sprays can certainly help, it can be difficult to be sure that you've treated all the hard-to-get areas that flea larvae congregate.

2. Flea prevention is better than cure. In other words, far better to treat your pet before it catches fleas, than end up chasing possibly hundreds or thousands of flea larvae around the house.

Flea Pupae
After 7-18 days, flea larvae pupate. Not the latest dance fad, but the process by which they spin a protective cocoon around themselves and develop into adults.

Inside the cocoon, fleas are almost impervious to insecticides. In fact, about the only thing that will get them during this stage of their life cycle is a blowtorch (which is perhaps a bit extreme for most people!).

It takes between 5-14 days for fleas to develop inside the cocoon, after which they are triggered to hatch in response to vibration (being stepped on), or the carbon dioxide exhaled by a passing host. But in the absence of a trigger, they can survive inside the cocoon for up to nine months.

So, what does this mean for successful flea control?

1. There are no chemical sprays on the market today that will penetrate the pupal cocoon. So, if you have pupal fleas in the house, you will need to start your flea control programme and accept that it may be weeks before they hatch and can be completely eliminated from the house.

2. Once again, prevention is the best approach to flea control. If you treat your pet before it comes into contact with fleas, you won't end up with flea pupae around your home.

Adult Fleas
A flea can hatch from its cocoon, jump on a passing pet, and begin feeding in as little as 7 seconds.

Unfortunately, scientists believe there is no such thing as an effective flea repellent. It seems that fleas are not repelled by garlic, citronella or brewers yeast.

Adult fleas are permanent ectoparasites. In other words, once they have landed on a pet, they'll stay there until they're removed by grooming or die. That's logical. After all, if you're already sitting in the best restaurant in town, why move?

Adult fleas usually live for a matter of days on a cat or dog, unless swallowed by the pet, or killed by an insecticide. They account for only 5% of a typical flea infestation at any one time (the rest existing in the egg, larval and pupal life stages).

Once again, some important flea control lessons here:

1. Remember, the objective is to kill fleas, not repel them!

2. Whilst it's adult fleas that make most people squirm, they are in fact the smallest part of the problem. Before they die, adult female fleas will lay hundreds of eggs around the home. Effective flea control means using a combination of 2 different types of insecticide: one that kills the fleas on your pet, and the other to prevent fleas laying eggs around your house.

reports from here

safest flea control for pets

2009-04-28T23:10:00.001+01:00

Ask Dr. Watts - Dr. Michael Watts, Vet Care, clevengerscorner.com

Published: April 26, 2009

Q: What is the best flea control product to use on my pets?

A: The answer to this question depends on several lifestyle and risk factors. For example, the best product for a dog that likes to swim may be different than the best product for a house cat. The answer may also depend on other parasites you are concerned about. For example, some flea products also protect against ticks, heartworm, mites, or intestinal parasites.

Your family veterinarian is the best person to formulate the ideal flea control program for your pet. Veterinary-quality flea control offers the best possible safety for your pet and efficacy against fleas. There are many brands and types of veterinary-quality flea control. Here is a summary of the most popular monthly spot-on products:

-Advantage – quickly kills adult fleas with some activity against flea larva

-Advantage-Multi – same as Advantage with added medication to prevent heartworm and some intestinal parasites

-Frontline – kills adult fleas, ticks, and lice

-Frontline Plus – same as Frontline with an added flea “birth control” that interferes with the fleas’ reproductive ability

-K9 Advantix – same as Advantage with added medication to kill and repel ticks and mosquitoes; extremely toxic to cats

-Promeris – dog product kills fleas, ticks, and some mites; cat product not labeled for ticks

-Revolution – similar to Advantage-Multi with added benefit of killing some ticks and mites; my favorite product for most cats

There are also several oral medications your veterinarian may recommend to help prevent or control flea infestations. They include:

-Capstar – a daily tablet that quickly kills fleas after they bite

-Comfortis – similar to Capstar, but administered monthly

-Program – a flea “birth control” given as a monthly pill in dogs or a six month injection in cats; prevents fleas from reproducing, but does not kill them

-Sentinel – Program pill combined with heartworm and intestinal worm prevention

Q: Why should I purchase my pets medication from my veterinarian?

A: As pet owners spend increasingly larger amounts caring for their companions, many corporations are seeing profit potential in pet medications. There are several good reasons pet owners should continuing purchasing from their local veterinarian.

First, and most importantly, the proceeds from a sale at your local veterinarian go directly to improving the quality of care for your pet. Dollars spent in the office pay for salaries for the caring staff you know by name, updates in medical equipment used to cure sick pets and continuing education to keep your veterinary healthcare team current. When you purchase from a corporation, your money leaves the local economy and only leads to more shareholder dividends.

Secondly, you can have confidence in the quality and storage conditions of the medications you purchase from your veterinarian. The FDA, EPA, and many state pharmacy boards report complaints about counterfeit medications, ineffective products, and improperly labeled drugs coming from mail-order companies. Many manufacturers are even invalidating guarantees on medications that are not purchased through a veterinarian. You can trust that your veterinarian goes to great lengths to ensure the safety and effectiveness of every medication she supplies.

Finally, purchasing medications through your family veterinarian helps to keep other medical costs down. In human medicine and in veterinary referral hospitals, doctors do not sell medications directly to patients. As a result, all the costs of running a medical facility are charged to patients through high service fees. An examination may cost $200. Surgery easily runs into thousands or tens of thousands of dollars.

In contrast, your family veterinarian’s service fees are substantially subsidized by medication sales. If a significant percentage of pet owners choose to purchase medications through other sources, family veterinarians will be forced to significantly raise service fees to pay for the operation of their offices. By saving a few dollars with mail-order medicine, owners may ultimately find it significantly more expensive the next time their pets become ill or injured.

Classification and Life Cycle of Flea

2009-04-28T19:44:00.001+01:00

Scientific classification: Order Siphonaptera. Dog fleas are classified as Ctenocephalides canis, cat fleas as Ctenocephalides felis felis, and human fleas as Pulex irritans. The rat flea of the tropics is classified as Xenopsylla cheopis; the rat flea of Europe as Ceratophyllus fasciatus. The sticktight flea is classified as Echidnophaga gallinacea.

Flea is the general name for parasitical, wingless insects. The adults of flea feed on the blood of their host they are seen as surface parasites on the skin of human beings, other mammals, and birds. They are found in every situation and place in the world. They lay eggs at the edges of carpets, between floorboards, in the folds of curtains, in refuse piles, and in other places that provide safety and adequate nutrition for the larvae. These eggs become larva in five to seven days and they are armed with biting mouthparts. They nourish for two to three weeks on crude refuse; the larvae spin cocoons and enter a pupa stage which turns to an adult in about one to two weeks.

Adult fleas are about 1 to 8 mm in length; they have wide, rather flat, polished bodies, which are light red-brown to very dark brown, short antennae, and piercing and sucking mouthparts. They have minute or no eyes at all. They have long and powerful legs which enable them to leap moderately high into the air.

Now, there are numerous flea species and they infest household pets and domestic animals. The dog flea and the cat flea are two of the most common species, both of which are parasites; sometimes they are on human beings, poultry, and livestock in the absence of their natural host. The human flea, the species commonly found on people, is distributed throughout the world. The dog flea, cat flea, and human flea are all intermediate hosts of a common cat and dog parasite, the cucumber tapeworm (Dipylidium caninum). Tapeworm eggs are deposited in faecal matter, and some of these eggs may clutch to the fur of the primary host. Flea larvae swallow the tapeworm eggs.

The worm larva remains within the flea during all its life stages, but becomes infective only in the adult flea. An animal or human being becomes infected when it swallows an infected flea, as, for example, when an animal licks its fur. The adult tapeworm then begins to develop inside the host animal. Human cases are rare and accidental. The rat fleas, in the tropics and in Europe, are important carriers of bubonic plague, as is the sticktight flea, which is also noted for its habit of clinging tenaciously to its host.

Dog eczema is usually connected with the presence of fleas. To control fleas, you have to target the adult and the larva, in summary you have to destroy the adults and making breeding places unsuitable for larval life. Adult fleas are destroyed by judicious application of insecticides or petroleum jelly. These agents must be properly used to avoid harm to the infected animal or person.

Flea Control For Cats: Applying Advantage

2009-04-08T01:25:00.001+01:00

How to apply - Cats

Fast Relief for Your Cat

Applying Advantage flea control to your feline friend is fast and easy. There are two convenient package sizes which offer flexibility in dosing:

For cats and kittens eight weeks or older:

Kittens/Cats 9 lbs. and under
Cats over 9 lbs.

Once you have the correct pre-measured dose from your veterinarian, follow the instructions below to provide your purr-fect companion with fast relief. (Advantage for cats should not be used on any other type of animal. Always consult your veterinarian prior to application.)

To correctly treat your kitten or cat:

Remove one applicator tube from the package.
Hold applicator tube in an upright position. Pull cap off tube.
Turn the cap around and place other end of cap back on tube.
Twist cap to break seal, then remove cap from tube.
Part the hair on the neck at the base of the skull until the skin is visible. Place the tip of the tube on the skin and squeeze the tube twice to apply the solution directly on the skin. Do not get this product in your pet's eyes or mouth. The product is bitter tasting and salivation may occur for a short time if the cat licks the product immediately after treatment. Treatment at the base of the skull will minimize the opportunity for the cat to lick the product.
Discard empty tube by securely wrapping in several layers of newspaper and discarding in trash.

Advantage Flea Control For Dogs: How to apply

2009-04-08T01:16:00.003+01:00

How to apply - for Dogs

Fast Relief for Your Dog

Applying Advantage flea control to your canine companion is fast and easy. Advantage is available in four different dosages, which your veterinarian will determine based on your pet's weight. (Advantage flea control for dogs should not be used on any other type of animal. Always consult your veterinarian prior to application.)

For dogs and puppies 7 weeks and older:

Puppies/Dogs 10 lbs. and under
Dogs 11-20 lbs.
Dogs 21-55 lbs.
Dogs over 55 lbs.

If your dog weighs 20 lbs. or less, follow these steps:

Remove one applicator tube from the package.
Hold applicator tube in an upright position. Pull off the cap.
Turn the cap around and place other end of cap back on tube.
Twist cap to break seal, then remove cap from tube.
The dog should be standing for easy application. Part the hair between the dog's shoulder blades on his/her back until the skin is visible. Place the tip of the tube on the skin and squeeze the tube twice to expel the entire contents directly on the skin. Do not get this product in your pet's eyes or mouth.
Discard empty tube by securely wrapping in several layers of newspaper and discarding in trash.

For dogs 21 lbs. and over:

Follow directions above, except in step 5, apply the entire contents of the tube to three or four spots on the top of the back from the shoulder to the base of the tail.

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Advantage Flea Control For Cats and Dogs

2009-04-08T01:05:00.002+01:00

About Advantage

Fleas: The unwanted guests in your home, and on your pet.

Everyone loves having friends and family visit, but some house guests can easily wear out their welcome. If your pesky visitors are fleas, these tiny pests can infest both dogs, cats. As you can see, for the health of your pet and sanctity of your home, it is important to get rid of fleas as quickly as possible and prevent their return. and invade your home all year long. Flea bites can cause discomfort for your pet, lead to skin infections, lead to allergic skin reactions causing irritation and can even transmit other disease-causing organisms, including tapeworms

That's why Bayer Animal Health created Advantage, a fast-working, month-long flea control for your pet.

Advantage:

stops biting fleas in three to five minutes¹
starts to kill adult fleas within an hour after application
within 12 hours, 98-100 percent of fleas are dead

Since our launch 10 years ago, millions of pet owners have used gentle, effective Advantage to combat flea infestation. Ask your veterinarian for Advantage flea control by name.

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Advantage for Dogs

Four dosage sizes:

Puppies/Dogs 10 lbs. and under
Dogs 11-20 lbs.
Dogs 21-55 lbs.
Dogs over 55 lbs.
Available in 4 and 6 packs

Advantage for Cats Two dosage sizes:

Kittens/Cats 9 lbs. and under
Cats over 9 lbs.
Available in 4 and 6 packs

Natural Flea Control

2009-04-08T00:51:00.000+01:00

There are 2,000 known species of fleas worldwide. But the cat flea, which bites cats, dogs and humans, is the most infamous indoor troublemaker. For every flea found on your animal, there are approximately 30 more in your home.

Most flea control products target only 5 percent of the flea population, the adults. Because fleas become stronger and more immune to chemicals with each generation, toxic chemicals must be repeatedly applied. And, although a product may claim to be natural, some natural ingredients may cause allergic reactions or have toxic effects in animals.

tips to prevent fleas from entering your home:

Spray microscopic nematodes in moist, shady spots outside ? even in flower and vegetable gardens. The worms eat flea larvae and can reduce populations by 90 percent within 24 hours.
Set eucalyptus leaves inside and out because fleas can't stand the smell. Buy bunches at a craft store, cut them up and place leaves and stems in open glass jars. Set one or two in each room of the house. Also, hang pod-filled socks from branches around the yard.

General Flea Control

2009-04-08T00:31:00.002+01:00

Scientific classification: Order Siphonaptera. Dog fleas are classified as Ctenocephalides canis, cat fleas as Ctenocephalides felis felis, and human fleas as Pulex irritans. The rat flea of the tropics is classified as Xenopsylla cheopis; the rat flea of Europe as Ceratophyllus fasciatus. The sticktight flea is classified as Echidnophaga gallinacea.

Flea is the general name for parasitical, wingless insects. The adults of flea feed on the blood of their host they are seen as surface parasites on the skin of human beings, other mammals, and birds. They are found in every situation and place in the world. They lay eggs at the edges of carpets, between floorboards, in the folds of curtains, in refuse piles, and in other places that provide safety and adequate nutrition for the larvae. These eggs become larva in five to seven days and they are armed with biting mouthparts. They nourish for two to three weeks on crude refuse; the larvae spin cocoons and enter a pupa stage which turns to an adult in about one to two weeks. Adult fleas are about 1 to 8 mm in length; they have wide, rather flat, polished bodies, which are light red-brown to very dark brown, short antennae, and piercing and sucking mouthparts. They have minute or no eyes at all. They have long and powerful legs which enable them to leap moderately high into the air.

Now, there are numerous flea species and they infest household pets and domestic animals. The dog flea and the cat flea are two of the most common species, both of which are parasites; sometimes they are on human beings, poultry, and livestock in the absence of their natural host. The human flea, the species commonly found on people, is distributed throughout the world. The dog flea, cat flea, and human flea are all intermediate hosts of a common cat and dog parasite, the cucumber tapeworm (Dipylidium caninum). Tapeworm eggs are deposited in faecal matter, and some of these eggs may clutch to the fur of the primary host. Flea larvae swallow the tapeworm eggs. The worm larva remains within the flea during all its life stages, but becomes infective only in the adult flea. An animal or human being becomes infected when it swallows an infected flea, as, for example, when an animal licks its fur. The adult tapeworm then begins to develop inside the host animal. Human cases are rare and accidental. The rat fleas, in the tropics and in Europe, are important carriers of bubonic plague, as is the sticktight flea, which is also noted for its habit of clinging tenaciously to its host. Dog eczema is usually connected with the presence of fleas.

To control fleas, you have to target the adult and the larva, in summary you have to destroy the adults and making breeding places unsuitable for larval life. Adult fleas are destroyed by judicious application of insecticides or petroleum jelly. These agents must be properly used to avoid harm to the infected animal or person.

Controlling Flea Infestation

2009-04-08T00:22:00.003+01:00

How do you know when you have a flea problem, and what do you do about it? The rest of the site covers a number of flea control methods you can use to get rid of your fleas, but this page discusses how to figure out whether your house is infested with fleas in the first place, and once you know that it is, what parts of the house you should check for fleas. If you don't know where to look, you can't know where to target the fleas with various products designed to eliminate them.

Fleas will get into any area where your pet sleeps or plays. Often, a the problem will simply be obvious - you'll

keep seeing fleas everywhere. You can find out fairly easily. Get a fine comb and groom your dog or cat - if you find little black speckles of what looks like dirt, you know that you have some new little friends. (This is flea excrement, so get ready to wash your hands). If you can't find this, but still think you have fleas, try sitting down on the floor and reading a book. If you do this for a half hour or so, you'll be sure whether or not you have fleas - they show up pretty dramatically against the background of the white pages of a book, and you will hear a clicking noise as they jump and land on the pages. This is a sure sign of fleas.

Once you know that you have them, you need to know where the fleas are in particular. Usually, they are focused in particular parts of the house. Wherever your pet sleeps is always going to be covered in fleas - it will have adults, and likely flea eggs as well (they fall off the dog or cat as it moves around). Carpets where your pet wanders around will also be filled with fleas - they can dig in there, and eggs easily get buried in the fibers. You should also check the back yard if you have one - often this is the source from which the whole thing starts. It's a little harder to tell whether they're out there, but it's usually a safe bet if the house has them and your pet goes outside frequently. You will either have to use flea control products such as frontline or advantage use products designed to kill flea in yards or keep your pet inside, because if you don't, they will just come back the next time Fido goes out to play.

Advantage Flea Control for Cats

2009-04-04T22:36:00.000+01:00

The use of drugs on the pets is not very safe at times. One needs to be extra careful in selecting drugs for pets, because there is no substitute to the comfort and health of the pet.

With regard to the care of cats, one needs to be a step ahead in care as the pet demands attention from the pet owner. Advantage flea control for cats is considered to be the ideal drug for use on cats. The brand has gained the confidence of the people in the market, and everyday the popularity graph is on the rise as the number of customers dealing with the drug's use is increasing.

Advantage flea treatment for cats has many advantages which makes it the right product to be used for flea control on cats. The advantages include:

1. Advantage flea control kills the fleas within 12 hours after the application.
2. Advantage flea control prevents flea biting after 3 to 4 minutes.
3. Advantage flea control is the right drug for kittens that are of the age of 6 to 8 weeks.
4. Advantage flea control is used on one spot and from there the medication spreads.
5. Advantage flea control helps in maintaining good health of cats. As many cats are allergic to flea biting, it gives added protection from this aspect.
6. The drug is used in order to keep the cats well protected from the attacks of fleas and ticks, thereby reducing the chances of damaging their health.

The drug is widely used by people who have kept cats with them, and they are advised to get the drug recommended by the veterinary doctor in order to improve on the health of the cat. Advantage flea treatment for cats is the kind of drug which has a comparatively lesser number of side effects which are not dangerous. Although it can have side effects, proper knowledge and information about the use and storage of the drug will always help individuals in protecting pets from the harmful effects of the drug.

The Advantage flea treatment for cats is used in order to protect the cats from the undesired effects of the insects which at all costs are supposed to be safe guarded. The drug is highly recommended for use, and there is no doubt with regard to the quality of the manufactured product, as the ingredients are well mixed in proper ratio in order to treat the flea biting and related complaints.

Because the drug is of high quality, it is a little expensive. There is simply no substitute for the drug with the end result being the comfort it provides to the pet after the application. Therefore, it is highly recommended to use the drug for the treatment of cats.

Advantage Flea Control

2009-04-04T22:33:00.000+01:00

When your dog or cat engages fleas or ticks in battle, give your pet the advantage! Flea control products are a safe, fast and effective means of eliminating flea and tick problems the right way the first time.

It's tempting to try to take the easy way out - just cross your fingers and hope that fleas and ticks don't happen to your pet. Unfortunately, if you live in parts of the country where fleas and ticks are prevalent, you could be putting your other pets and family members at risk for uncomfortable flea and tick bites, as well as the dangerous diseases these parasites carry, if you let your pet go "au natural."

Spot applications of flea drops such as Advantage flea control, Frontline for dog or cat fleas, and K-9 Advantix are a good way to apply a small, targeted flea treatment that will go right where it's needed without "spraying" or "dipping" your dog - processes that uses more medication than really necessary, and without using a flea collar which may be ineffective at the tail end of your dog, anyway.

You can supplement your efforts with natural flea control methods including cedar shavings in the pet's bedding area, regular vacuuming, and combing your dog to inspect for and remove fleas and ticks by hand.

These processes can be time consuming, though, and if you're not going to have time to keep up with them, fleas and ticks can easily get the better of you because they are hard to detect when they arrive and can multiply quickly.

Break the flea life cycle and keep flea eggs already in your home from re-starting the infestation cycle, with an easy monthly application of Advantage flea control products, Frontline, or K-9 Advantix for dogs.

Whichever product you use, be sure to read the directions and follow them closely.

AC Frontline Flea Control

2009-04-04T22:31:00.000+01:00

For common problems suffered by your pet, ACFrontline Flea Tick Control product will provide you pest control you need. When choosing a product to use on your pet, you want something that is harsh to parasites like fleas and ticks, and yet gentle to your pets. Advantage or Frontline is among the top flea and tick control products out in the market today.

Upon the first sign of irritation or discomfort on your pet, bring them to your veterinarian right away. After all, it should be common knowledge among pet owners that most pets are easily susceptible to these pests. But there are greater risks posed against your pet dogs or cats since the presence of these pests can irritate their skin. Furthermore, your pet will scratch excessively just to alleviate their suffering from itch and that's when things take a turn to the worst.

You must never ignore the presence of fleas and ticks of your dog, thinking that it is a normal condition. Aside from the possibility of acquiring serious skin diseases, they are also in danger of serious health problems. A responsible pet owner will readily find solution to remedy your pet's condition. So, after you consult with your pet's vet, you have to find an effective flea and tick control product.

You can avoid any further dilemma regarding your pet's health by using ACFrontline Flea Tick control products. Frontline offers an effective flea control shampoo that aims to remove any existing fleas or ticks on your pet's body. Then, it works on stopping the possible growth or increase of flea and ticks that live on your cats or dogs. That is the main purpose of flea and tick control products, not just to remove them but to prevent future infestation.

There is a wide range of available flea and tick control products that you can choose from. The choice of product to use depends mainly on the degree of infection and preventive measures. For example, the Dog Frontline Flea Control helps destroy existing fleas and their larvae within a period of 24 to 48 hours. Hence, as you kill the larvae, you put an end to their life cycle.

Among other products that help control flea and tick infestation include pet shampoo, sprays, powders, dips, solutions, as well as an electronic flea and tick repellant. There are also several home remedies that aim to address this problem such as the use of garlic, vinegar, or yeast. While these products are considered safe since they are free of chemicals, they are not as effective as compared to products made specifically for this purpose.

Advantage and Frontline flea and tick control products have been clinically proven to fight pests that live on your pet's body. Therefore, you can be assured that it is safe for them to use. Consult with your veterinarian first regarding your pet's specific skin type, breed, and size as these will help determine the right dosage of these products to administer on your pet.

The most important step that you can take to free your pets off these pests is to constantly bring them to your veterinarian, as well as constant grooming. However, several ACFrontline Flea Tick Control Products will surely come handy when you need them

Frontline Flea Control

2009-04-04T22:26:00.000+01:00

Those annoying fleas in your cat's or dog's fur are just tiny critters that don't look harmful. But hey, the Ebola virus is much smaller but it kills.

Parasitic fleas can cause serious problems if left to their own devices. Flea infestation on pets causes irritation and harms their health, and in some cases, the invasion of these little bloodsuckers into your home leads to bigger problems, such as transmission of diseases, particularly flea bite dermatitis, epidemic murine typhus, tapeworm, and even bubonic plague.

If you think fleas only infest furry animals - and you feel safe because you're clean shaven - think again. In the absence of furry pets, human are their target blood meals. They're voracious bloodsuckers and they will enjoy the 'homo-sapiens vintage.'

Before it happens, you need an effective flea control system. Without it, it would be a great disaster to have pets and their owners sharing the same set of diseases introduced by the fleas.

Flea control methods vary according to the degree of damage these fleas cause. The first big step would be to clean up your surroundings. Frequent dusting, sweeping, mopping, washing and vacuum cleaning will help decrease of the number of fleas at home.

For the flea-infested pets, flea treatment products are necessary. Give your pets daily cold baths. Comb their fur with flea combs. Apply flea shampoo, flea powder, flea collar, flea dip, or even the flea spray. You can even do these to your pets even if they don't have fleas. Prevention is a much lesser bother than cure.

You must also remember that there's a more effective way for treating our flea-infested pet. Consulting a veterinarian is a good start. They practically know all pet-related issues, and they can recommend tested and proven flea control products. It is essential that you and your pet pay the vet a visit for a good assessment of the problem and to know the right pet supplies that could safely deal with the problem in the shortest time.

Talking of flea control products, most veterinarians have long been recommending FRONTLINE. This brand's products are safe (comes with accurate and clear instructions) and highly effective in ridding cats and dogs of fleas. The company guarantees pet-owner satisfaction - and if only pets could leave good comments, they would!

Frontline products are known to be:

User-friendly. Each product comes with easy-to-understand instructions. Frontline flea control products can help solve the problem without giving you a hard time thinking of other complications they might bring.

Frontline Spot On and Frontline Plus, used with pipette, are applied just once in a month to specific spots on the cat's or dog's body (back of the neck for cats; between dog's shoulder blades). These are gentle for puppies and kittens, as well as for nursing tabbies and bitches. These are even stain- and odor-free!

Waterproof. Frontline products are proven water resistant even after swimming, bathing with shampoo, and even exposure to sunlight - for up to 30 days.

Highly effective. You save your pet from discomforts and diseases by combating these harmful fleas with Frontline products. These contain Fipronil, an insecticide that spreads immediately right after application and immediately kills adult fleas by causing hyperexcitation of its nerves and muscles causing its paralysis and death. The products also have insect growth regulator, so before the eggs could hatch and develop into adult fleas that bite, Frontline already works!

Long Lasting. Frontline flea control products work in such a way that these are applied just once a month and immediately functions within 24 to 48 hours. They last for up to 30 days minimum and 60 days maximum! It's not just effective; it is also cost-efficient.

Satisfying. With all these features in one package, any pet could certainly be spared from these invaders. That's why Frontline is Number One in the United Kingdom. Frontline flea control products are not complicated, inexpensive, available in any shops and online stores, and proven effective in keeping a flea-free pets and household!

Keeping healthy pets and healthy homes is the best domestic policy. Don't waste your money trying other products that could harm your pets and bring you more troubles. Trust only the products trusted by most veterinarians, and see how Frontline lives up to its billing.

Effective Flea Control Tips

2009-04-04T22:07:00.001+01:00

Are you a pet owner? Perhaps you take a step further and on one of those folks that has a whole menagerie of animals. Now the question is, do they all live inside a house with you? If your answer is yes, then you've probably dealt with the issue of flea control. This is especially problematic for those pets that constantly go from outside to inside all day long. Man, are you guys leaving yourselves opened to a full-time invasion of fleas.

Those pesky little suckers will never leave you alone once they have invaded your inner sanctum. They bounce around on the furniture and carpet in search of pets to nibble on. If you ever heard of flea circus? Don't put one on for you, if you let them. What really stinks is that they can even go after you if they can't find any animals. That's why you have to get down and dirty with some all out flea control.

What do you do to get rid of fleas? Have you ever tried the bug bombs? You know, the ones that you place in the center of the room and they blow smoke throughout your house. Pretty nasty business actually. You actually have to leave the house for hours on end until it clears up, if it ever does actually clear of. If I sound a little skeptical about using this technique then you're right.

The sad thing is that in my experience this method did not even work. It was one form of flea control that cost me more hassle than it did me good. At the end of the day, that nasty cocktail of chemicals gets all over everything. You have to actually wash anything that's washable and went down anything else. It's a real hassle. Fortunately there are other methods of flea control.

A short time ago, my home was invaded with tons of these tiny, dubious little creatures. I wasn't going to play any games with them and decided to pull out all the stops. I wasn't sure how I acquired this dilemma in the first place. It's not like we had pets that went in and out. We only had one cat for Pete's sake. I actually came to the conclusion that the fleas were brought into the house by us as opposed to the cat.

Either way, I called an exterminator for assistance. This was actually the most desirable form of flea control that I could think of. The exterminator came in, treated every room by spraying some kind of poison around the edges of the carpet, and that ladies and gentlemen was it. That's the way I go about this thing. It worked like a charm. I mean the fleas just suddenly disappeared. Apparently they all progress to the outside of the carpet and die. There's a real science involved with these guys.

Oh, and he also gave us a flea control medication to dab on the back of our cat's neck. He really covered it all. In the end, I have to recommend this route to flea control. I guess the professionals really do know their stuff. If you are in need of further information regarding flea control, you can easily go on the Internet and find a ton of information. Get rid of those nasty, little fleas today.

Life Cycle of Flea

2009-04-04T21:56:00.000+01:00

My dog has fleas. That one statement is enough to make any visitor to my house run back down the walk to their car.

If you own a pet it's one of those unwritten facts that they will, at one time or another, have fleas. One of the not-so-fun jobs of pet ownership is dealing with an infestation or working to avoid one.

To cope effectively with fleas you should have an understanding of their habits and life cycles. I realize that doesn't sound like fun, sitting-in-front-of-the-fire reading material, but knowing what you're up against is winning half the battle before it starts. So here's the low down on fleas.

Adult flea - lives on the host animal (dog or cat), where the female lays her eggs.

Egg - flea eggs are laid on the animal but fall off into the bedding, carpeting, and elsewhere in the animal's home and hatch into larvae within a few days (depending on heat & humidity).

Larva - flea larvae feed on organic material in the environment and on the droppings from adult fleas. I know it's gross.

As the larvae feed on adult flea droppings, they are found in highest numbers in areas where flea-infested animals spend much of their time.

Pupa - after 5-11 days, the larvae produce a cocoon in which they complete their development. During this stage of their life cycle, fleas are resistant to flea sprays, shampoos, medications,etc.

In ideal conditions, adult fleas hatch from their cocoon in as little as 5 days, although they can live in the cocoon for up to 5 months.

Hatching is brought on by vibration, physical pressure, heat, and air; in other words, the your dog walks in the room, sits down and BAMM.

After hatching, the adult flea finds an animal and within 2 days the female flea begins producing eggs. Fleas can continue to produce eggs for up to 100 days and believe it or not, a single flea can produce thousands of eggs.

I know the whole concept of fleas and their life cycle is gross and personally if I wasn't confronted with our three dogs in constant agony looking at me with those big, sad eyes .. well I'd probably ignore the whole flea thing.

What you do now that you're armed with all this terrific flea knowledge is:

1. Control the fleas on your pet - keep them groomed and use shampoos made for flea control. There are flea medicines that we use in my house. Personally, I prefer "Frontline" because it is a gel and I just rub a little dab at the nape of their neck (do dogs have a nape?) and the fleas are ousted for thirty days or so. You can also get pills like "Program" that control the fleas by sterilizing any female flea that bites your dog.

2. Keep the pet bedding flea-free. This is probably what I had the most trouble with because I have three dogs and they don't sleep in actual beds. But, if you can keep the fleas off the bedding, blankets, carpeting or whatever area they stake-out as their own space, your battle is much easier. Some people even studied fleas and they decided that only about 5% of the adult flea population actually live on your dog. That means the other 95% plus are living either outdoors or in the bedding, carpeting and such.

Don't give up. If you can keep the fleas off your pet or at least under control AND if you are vigilant with the whole bedding issue then fleas won't control your life or that of your dog.

Flea Control

2009-04-04T21:45:00.001+01:00

Fleas are wingless, blood-sucking insects that feed on dog, cats, humans and other species. There are many different types of flea each one specific to the animal that it lives on. The most frequent fleas found in the home are the cat flea and dog flea.

THE FLEA PROBLEM

Fleas and ticks are responsible for a number of diseases in pets and people. Some types of ticks, for example, can transmit the bacteria that cause Lyme disease to animals and humans and some fleas can harbor tapeworm larvae, which grow into adult tapeworms in the intestines of pets or people. Flea bites commonly cause skin irritation and itching and some pets are allergic to flea saliva.

Taking care of your pets responsibly includes protecting them from fleas and ticks. Fleas can be a problem even in the best kept homes and on the cleanest of pets. The best approach to managing fleas is prevention. But if you already have a flea problem, you can control them as long as you treat both your pet and your home. Many products are available to help control fleas and ticks on pets and in their environment. Check with your veterinarian for appropriate treatments.

FLEA TREATMENT AND CONTROL

The objective of treatment is to break the flea life cycle by treating the home, the pets, and the outside environment with insecticide. Before purchasing and applying pesticide products to pets to control fleas and ticks, talk to your veterinarian about the best product to use and how to treat the animal, as well as the environment.

After feeding on your pet's blood the female flea lays eggs which drop into the animal's bedding or favourite resting place. The highest concentration of eggs, larvae and pupae are likely to be in these areas rather than on the animal itself. This means the vast majority of the flea population lives in your yard or home.

Regular cleaning of bedding combined with thorough vacuuming of furniture and floors will help to destroy each stage of the flea's life cycle. Frequently vacuum floors, upholstered furniture, and areas where pets may sleep indoors. Treat animal bedding by boiling, or use animal-safe insecticides or other products recommended by your vet.

When treating the yard, don't forget to treat under bushes and in flower beds. If pets travel in the car, treat car seats and carpets as well.

You should continue to vacuum the house frequently and thoroughly. Throw away the dust bag (vacuum cleaner bags) from your vacuum after each use to prevent any flea eggs and larvae from developing. Don't allow pets to roam and pick up fleas from other animals and keep pets out of hard to clean areas.

PROFESSIONAL FLEA CONTROL

Once fleas are established, eliminating them requires persistence. If home treatments are ineffective, professional extermination may be needed. Further advice on methods of treatment can be obtained from the environmental health officer at your local council, or a commercial pest control company. You can also pay a visit to your veterinarian who will recommend services or products suitable to treat your pet and your home.

Flea Control

2009-04-04T21:44:00.000+01:00

Fleas are small insects that are capable of giving humans and their pets big troubles with a little stab of their proboscis. There are over 2,400 species of fleas worldwide, but fortunately, there are just four or five species of fleas that are a threat to humans. The most commonly found species in America is the cat flea, which feeds on cats and dogs, as well as humans.

An infestation of fleas can be a serious threat, not merely an annoyance, in some cases. Flea bites can cause skin irritations as well serious allergies in pets and humans. Sometimes, more dangerous fleas pass on serious diseases. So it becomes very important to prevent them from breeding, or destroying them once they are present, by using various measures.

The first step towards stopping the growth of the fleas is through vacuuming the house on a regular basis. This helps in keeping the flea population low by killing adult and egg-stage fleas, although vacuuming has not proven very effective in killing the flea larvae. As a more advanced step, cracks should be sealed after vacuuming, to permanently eliminate these favorite breeding areas for fleas.

In cases of severe infestation, steam cleaning and other measures might be required. Research shows that if a cat flea larva is exposed to 1030F for one hour, it dies. Some commercial devices are available in the market to produce such lethal temperatures. As this tool that generates heat consists of a loose shaft, it can only be applied locally. Therefore, fleas may escape by hiding in the carpet or elsewhere.

Another method of killing fleas is by using insecticidal on the organic matter accumulated outside the house. Another product, named Insecticidal Dust, containing silica aero gel, is also successful in killing fleas by rupturing their skin and absorbing the oil and moisture. The direct application of products containing citrus peel extracts, d-limonene, and linalool on pets’ bedding are useful in killing fleas in all the stages of growth. Finally, pest control products sold by veterinary doctors, like sodium poly-borate, applied on carpets, are also useful in killing fleas.

Taking preventative steps at the right time can save us from the annoyance and troubles caused by these tiny creatures; but if we already have them, there are a number of ways to eliminate them.

Flea Control For Cats

2009-04-04T21:43:00.000+01:00

No need to wrestle your cat into a flea dip anymore. The latest preventive treatments are easy to apply. While shampoos and flea collars are still options, parasitologists have developed wonderful new weapons in the war against fleas and ticks. With simple monthly administrations of these oral, injectable, or topical medications, you can guard your cat against flea and tick infestations. Fleas and ticks are dangerous disease carriers that can make your cat's life miserable. Fleas can transmit tapeworms and cause itchy allergic reactions, which can lead to scratching, hair loss, and infection. Fleas ingest animals' blood, and the bloodsuckers can actually consume so much that some cats die of blood loss. Hence it's crucial to keep your cat flea-free.

These Treatments Keep the Pests Away

New medications prevent infestations by killing the adults that hitch a ride on your furry friend or by keeping their eggs from hatching. Here's what you need to know about the most common flea and tick preventives in your veterinarian's arsenal.

Program contains lufenuron, a chemical that prevents flea eggs from hatching but does not kill adult fleas. It is available as a monthly oral tablet or suspension and as a twice yearly veterinarian administered injection. This compound doesn't work against ticks.
Frontline is available in a dab-on formula or a spray. It uses fipronil to wipe out both fleas and ticks, and it continues to work even after you give your pet a bath.

Advantage (imidacloprid) is a topical treatment that also withstands washings and keeps killing fleas for a full month.

Revolution (selamectin) is the latest big gun among the monthly options for flea and tick prevention. You apply a few drops of the liquid medication to your pet's skin, and it guards against heartworms, flea eggs and adult fleas, ticks, ear mites, hookworms, and roundworms.

If Your Cat Has Been Infested

If you started using one of these flea medications after you discovered a flea infestation, you'll need to treat your house too. Fleas can live for several months in your house and yard, and flea eggs may hatch in your carpet, cushions, and drapes for years. Your cat isn't the only one at risk: People can get irritating fleabites too. Ridding your home of these pests takes time and a concerted approach. Here's what to do.

To get rid of housebound fleas

Use professional flea foggers in each room and sprays for hard-to-reach spots. Clean the flea eggs out of your house by vacuuming several times in a week. After each vacuuming session, remove vacuum bags and tape them closed, then throw the bags away. Also clean your cat's favorite hangouts and wash her bedding regularly.

If your flea problem is recurring

You may need to treat your yard as well. Use professional concentrated yard sprays for the outdoor fight. You can buy many that attach easily to the end of a garden hose for application. It's especially important to spray moist and shaded areas of your yard. Note: You should never use any environmental treatment directly on your pet. Ridding your pet and home of these hardy pests is a tough job, but you'll rest easier knowing that your cat doesn't have to endure the maddening itch or insidious diseases these parasites can inflict.

General Flea Control II

2009-04-04T21:40:00.001+01:00

Treating the Pet's Environment:

In general, the products used in the environment can be more toxic and last longer than those which are applied to the animal. Never use these products directly on your pet or children unless the bottle states it is safe to do so (even then, I would question this.)

Where young children and infants are concerned, more importance is placed on safety than effectiveness. This is why it is important for you to be involved in the choices of products for your home and pets.

Premise control products kill only the susceptible stages of the fleas at the point in time they are used. They are fairly safe and can be used as the main environmental treatment in homes that have birds and fishes as pets. The frequency of fogging and spraying depends upon the temperature and humidity, degree of flea infestation, the traffic of pets in and out, the effectiveness of the products used, and the amount of household clutter in which fleas can hide.

Foggers are designed to cover large enclosed areas and are set off while all occupants (including pets) are away. They are most effective in empty spaces and in crawl spaces. In homes with furniture or items covering the floor they are not very effective. Foggers can take care of up to 80% of the problem. Make sure you get one with a growth inhibitor in it.

When using foggers, remove all living things from the premises. Cover your fish tanks and remove all the birds. Read labels prior to using any foggers or premise sprays. Because the insect growth regulator Methoprene is also removed with vacuuming, vacuum or steam clean before using them and wait at least 4 days after fogging to vacuum. Foggers are basically gone after 10-15 vacuumings.

Put your dollars into growth inhibitor products for most effective and economical results.

Premise Sprays are designed for spot treatment or for difficult to reach areas and for areas which are not enclosed such as a back porch or doghouse. Use premise sprays for the baseboards, under the furniture, and between the couch cushions and around the edges of the water bed mattress.

These products last 2-3 months, are not as easily vacuumed up (they last for 20-30 vacuumings) and are very good for high traffic areas and for continuous protection. These products are broken down and become ineffective by the sun's rays. Use them for touch up in well-traveled pathways in the house where you may vacuum more often. Don't forget to treat your car if you pets travel with you (even just once to the vet.) This product is effective and a good use for your dollars.

Yard and kennel sprays are for outdoor use and should be used in accordance with manufacturer recommendations. Most fleas live within a 30-foot radius of the building -- where most pets spend their time. These sprays can be purchased at your veterinarian's office, pet shops, on-line, or at the local garden store.

Nematodes that eat flea larvae: A few years ago I carried a natural product of nematodes to sprinkle on your lawn that would kill the flea larvae. That would be a great product if it were effective. The downfalls to this product were that it had to be kept wet, the expiration dates are short, it is expensive, and one can does not go far. If anyone of you out there has found a good product like this could be, let me know!

Malathion and Sevin are the sprays used most frequently for the yard, but get inactivated by sunshine and they will not last over 3-7 days. Spray them after the sun has gone down and when you know it won't be raining for a day or two.

Housekeeping can be an extremely effective flea control measure. Vacuuming will remove flea eggs, pupae and the flea droppings used by the larvae for food. Vacuum up some flea powder or add a piece of flea collar to each new bag or burn the vacuum sweepings to prevent fleas from completing their life cycle in the compost heap or trash bag. Vacuuming EVERY DAY is essential if you don't want to use chemicals. Also, getting rid of carpet in your house helps a lot. I would also recommend an occasional shampoo of the carpets (not dry-chemical cleaning) as it will suffocate the cocoons.

A note about worms: When fleas (or mice) are ingested by your pet the tapeworm (cestode) is allowed to finish its life cycle. If you see rice-sized segments sticking to the hairs around the rectum of your pet or see the segments or "ribbon or noodle-like" worms in the stool or on the animals bedding you should contact your veterinarian for a drug to treat them. Over-the-counter worm preparations only treat nematodes (roundworms) and are not effective against tapeworms. Worming may be necessary as often as every three weeks (the life cycle of the tapeworm) depending on the severity of the flea problem.

When in doubt (especially for large dogs, which can be very expensive to worm,) bring in a fresh stool sample for a floatation. The floatation may not show eggs even though your pet has worms.

My recommendation is to worm your pets if you are seeing fleas with a good tapewormer (I use Cestex) and worm twice a year with pyrantel pamoate (also called Nemex or Strongid-T) roundwormer. Piperzine is useless these days for roundworming and no longer works at all in cats. The grocery store doses are ineffective.

If you have wormers at home and would like to try to use them up first, call your vet. We need to know the chemical name (scientific name) to be able to tell you if you have the proper medication.

NEVER give a store bought wormer to a pet who is sick unless your vet is consulted first. You may cause some severe problems--especially with triple wormers. I once had a relative give her pregnant dog a triple wormer. The dog strained so much that her uterus burst and she died.

Diatomaceous Earth: Not all diatomaceous earth (DE) is alike. Stay away from filtration types. All DE that is used for filtration purposes (pools, spas, etc) has undergone chemical and heat treatment. The heat treatment greatly increases the percentage of crystalline silica, which poses a serious inhalation risk. DE has high crystalline silica content and some DE has high levels of arsenic in it. Our local organic people recommend Perma-Guard (www.perma-guard.com). Another brand to use that is safe is Biconet. Only natural untreated DE should be used for insect control.

How does DE work? The dust clogs their breathing apparatus so they suffocate. Unfortunately it may also make asthma symptoms worsen.

Mopping with soap and mild bleach water is quite effective for flea control in those houses with no carpets. Many of my clients with flea allergic animals and inhalant allergy children eventually change over to hardwood floors and linoleum.

Flea attractant lights. What a racket. Don't waste your money on this gimmick.

White dishes filled with water and Joy dish soap: I suspect if you are attracting fleas to this kind of contraption that you have a severe infestation and should think about doing something a bit more effective.

General Flea Control

2009-04-04T21:39:00.001+01:00

Did you know…

• Fleas spend only 10% of their time on your animal

• An average fleas' life span can be up to 2-3 years

• One female flea can lay up to 1 million eggs during its life

• Eggs can live unhatched in your carpet for a year until the right environment for hatching occurs

• Bark dust, wood piles and ivy are great places for fleas to survive the winter months

• The flea is the second oldest insect (the cockroach is the first) because of its excellent survival mechanisms

The Flea Life Cycle

Adult cat and dog fleas prefer to feed on pets rather than people. The pets are closer to the ground and have warmer body temperatures than humans. Second choice would be children -- especially infants and toddlers. Female fleas will probe and bite and average of seven times in a "grouping" before locating a blood vessel in the skin. The saliva they leave with each bite can cause a localized allergic reaction (flea allergy dermatitis or FAD as we call it in the veterinary world.) After feeding on large amounts of blood, the female flea deposits her eggs and droppings (flea dirt) which consists mostly of undigested blood. Both the eggs (which are white and about the size of a grain of salt) and the droppings (which are black and appear like ground pepper, often in the shape of a comma) drop off the animal's coat and spread all over the environment.

Here's a quick home-test to see if your pet has fleas: Lay out a white piece of butcher paper and groom your pet for a few minutes as they stand on the paper. Do you see any black, comma-looking things against the white paper? If so, put a drop of water on it. If it's flea dirt, the water will turn pink.

Flea eggs remain in the environment for variable amounts of time and are not destroyed by extremes in temperature or by pesticides. When proper conditions exist, the eggs hatch and release tiny white larvae. These larvae are not able to get around and must rely on the undigested blood left in the droppings for their food source. Larvae are very susceptible to extremes in environment, pesticides, and insect growth regulators.

Within several days the larvae spin a protective cocoon called a pupae around themselves. The pupae are very resistant to all but steam cleaning and can lie dormant for many months to years. The pupae is the primary stage that over-winters in the environment. When conditions are favorable (warm and moist), the pupae release young adult fleas and the cycle is complete.

The length of the flea life cycle can vary from a little as one month to as long as two or three years.

Flea Control Products

There are many products available to eliminate fleas. They differ in effectiveness, application, safety, convenience, odor of the product, and duration of effectiveness. Sounds pretty complicated, right? It is. It's actually a chemical nightmare.

AN EFFECTIVE FLEA CONTROL PROGRAM MUST INCLUDE ALL ANIMALS IN THE HOUSEHOLD AND THE ENTIRE ENVIRONMENT IN WHICH THE ANIMALS LIVE (INCLUDING YOUR CAR.)

Many people only use one product at a time, which is NOT effective. You must treat the animal, the house, and the yard all at one time to get this challenge under control.

Control of fleas on the pet: You have your choice of powders, sprays, dips, spot-ons or oral growth regulators.

Flea Powder: Manufacturers of these products say flea powder is safe to use every 3-4 days on dogs and cats older than 8 weeks of age. The active ingredient, (pyrethrins being the safest and most natural ingredient) takes about 15 minutes to kill fleas when first applied. By the end of 5-7 days, if not reapplied, flea powder works only as a residual, taking up to 12 hours to kill the flea. There is no growth regulator in this product so it only kills the adults.

Note: Powder should be diluted to half strength with talcum powder when used on puppies and kittens.

Disadvantages of flea powder: Flea powder can make the coat feel rough and dirty. So, if your pet is already uncomfortable from the fleas and now you are alienating them by not giving them the affection you used to when their coats were cleaner and softer, this makes the problem worse. The animals do not enjoy flea powder and it may make asthma worse.

Flea Sprays: Sprays can vary somewhat. Most are alcohol-based and some are more organic than others. The alcohol is for quick kill of the adult and pre-adult stages. Some flea sprays contain an insect growth regulator that will kill flea eggs as well. Make sure you get one with this in it. Pets run when they see you come to them with that bottle after a few applications.

The only time I use flea spray is when I'm treating a cat for ear mites (I spray some on a Kleenex and wipe their head down after I clean their ears and put medication down both ear canals.) I also use it to spray my pant legs when I take walks in the woods during tick season.

So, could you use rubbing alcohol or vodka to kill the adults? Yes, but using rubbing alcohol can be toxic. Rubbing alcohol contains a bit of methanol, which can cause blindness when ingested. Cats groom themselves and will ingest this. If you want to use alcohol, stick with vodka or Everclear, but it's really not very effective.

Aromatherapy: Herbal insecticides include pennyroyal (very toxic), clove, citronella, and eucalyptus oils (diluted of course.) These can be mixed in with shampoos or applied to a material flea collar. They can be very irritating when applied directly to the skin. They should not be put directly onto the coat either because when the animal grooms himself or herself they will ingest it. In general, pets hate this type of flea control and only submit to it in a learned helplessness type of situation.

Flea collars are only minimally effective in the control of fleas. Most collars contain dichlorvos, which is released as a vapor. They are sold under several trade names. Dichlorvos is toxic to animals and people and can cause severe reactions occasionally. Remember, flea and tick collars don't work well for animals over 20 pounds.

Note: Collars are especially harmful to Persian cats. They may also cause localized reactions around the neck.

Ultrasonic collars are ineffective and may cause hearing loss in your pet. Ultrasonic collars are an expensive gimmick. Don't fall for this.

Dips which kill fleas and mites for several days or weeks are highly toxic and should not be used for routine flea control. One study found that more than 3 dips per year led to an increased incidence of cancer. Wear gloves if you decide on this method of flea control (although I have no idea why you would.) Try to pick a non-organophosphate (OGP) type with a growth inhibitor in it.

Pour-on and Spot-on products containing organophosphates are also very toxic. Organophosphate spot-on kills the fleas only after it bites the pet and sucks its blood. These products are also dangerous where infants are concerned. Do not let a small child be exposed to the pet for at least 24 hours after these products are used. I have heard of instances where the parent found a dead infant the day after putting this on the family dog that slept with the child. They are applied once every two weeks. A good rule of thumb is "if a little is good, a lot is NOT necessarily better." Use only the dose specified on the bottle. Make sure you know the weight of the animal before you dose them. Make note of the next paragraph.

Common side effects to flea products may include hypersalivation, vomiting, and diarrhea. Some animals appear to foam at the mouth, others stagger about. Their pupils dilate and they seem disoriented. The best treatment is to remove the product from the animal's skin or body. Bathe your pet immediately—with a mild shampoo NOT containing flea control. Some animals may need to be treated by a veterinarian with atropine or steroids to help the animal deal with the toxicity and in some instances to save their lives. If you have any questions, do not hesitate to call your vet.

One product on the market seems to be working quite well and is minimally toxic. It is called Advantage. Advantage is a spot-on with a growth inhibitor, which works for 3-4 weeks. It permeates the fatty layer of the skin. It should be applied after the bath because bathing leeches the product from the skin. Advantix is a formula that is used for those who are in a tick area. It is also fairly safe.

For dogs that swim regularly, this product may not work as well as others such as Program. If Advantage is not working for you, you are most likely not following a total flea control program of treating all animals in your house, premise spraying the house, the car and treating the yard as well.

Occasionally I have seen Advantage react locally with the skin causing the hair in that area to fall out, but this is rare.

Program is an oral product that contains growth inhibitor. It is given once a month and literally sterilizes the adult fleas so they cannot produce any eggs. It is very safe for both the animal and owners. The animals don't mind the taste in most cases and it is very effective when used with environmental control. Some forms of Program also include a heartworm preventative and monthly roundwormer (pyrantel pamoate). This product is especially recommended for flea problems of a larger magnitude and for long term maintenance. It's not a good product for the flea allergic pet, however because the flea still needs to bite the pet to ingest the growth inhibitor.

I am often asked about Frontline products. I will have to say that I have never muscle-tested this product to be safe for any pet. It sure is popular and sells like crazy (I don't carry it.) I don't know why, but Advantage and Program seem to be the safest products with the fewest chance for side effects.

Flea Shampoos provide no protection once they are rinsed off. They can provide temporary relief (a few hours with severe infestation of the environment) and will kill the fleas on the animal at the time of the bath. They are good in getting rid of the flea dirt on the skin, but they also dry the skin out and are not good for dogs with dry/flaky or oily/greasy skin. It's better to choose the correct medicated shampoo for your pet in these cases.

Apply flea spray, powder, or Advantage to the pet after the bath for longer lasting results. Any animal having skin disease along with the flea problem should see your veterinarian for proper treatment and recommendations regarding diet, shampoo and treatments.

I'm sorry to say that B-Vitamins, Brewer's Yeast, Garlic, Cedar Chips and Herbal Flea Collars will not kill fleas. They do, however, make the skin smell bad to the flea and will deter them. Scientific studies show a decrease of only 20% in the flea numbers with the use of these products.

Note: Cedar chips and shavings can be harmful to your pet's skin. The slivers off the chips can embed into the skin and cause tumors (that goes for rats too!). The essential oil of the wood is also very toxic and has been known to cause cancer.

Avon Skin-So-Soft is used by itself as a flea deterrent and is in Duo-Cide products. To use this product, add 2 tablespoons Skin-So-Soft per pint water in a pint spray bottle. Shake well just before using each time--it is an oil/water interface. Skin-So-Soft may make the coat oily and you may have to wash the pet more often as the dust will stick to this oil more readily. If your pet has allergies, this would not be a good choice. The goal is to reduce allergen exposure on the coat for allergic pets. This product would help the pollens to adhere to your pet causing more problems.

Flea combs are highly recommended for animals that cannot tolerate flea products. The challenge is to get the owners to use the comb as often as necessary to help the animal--every day. Grooming can be biweekly after you comb off no more fleas for several days in a row. Continue to use the flea comb daily for those flea-allergic pets. Fleas need to be crushed with a thumbnail as they have very hard exoskeletons.

Some fleas combs are better than others. Try to purchase one that will rake off the adult fleas, eggs, and flea dirt all at once. These combs are also excellent in the prevention of hairballs in cats (and will comb out lice in a child's hair very effectively). Fleas combs won't comb through the longer coats very easily--the tines bend and break. I like the kind imported from England. They have a great handle you can palm and metal tines that can really take a beating (or grooming.) I also use my flea comb to comb out the winter coats on my pets. They cost about $7.00.

Flea Control

2009-04-04T21:34:00.000+01:00

Flea control

Whoever said getting rid of fleas is easy needs to re-think again. In my experience, flea control can be quite challenging when confronted with flea infestation, flea bites, or fleas on pets.

Flea control is and can be effected by:

* climate changes

* where you live

* and a host of other reasons

Fact is, fleas never discriminate. They feel equally as comfortable on the most well groomed show dog or... on any stray animal. Their goal is clear... to simply feed and breed!

This is where your flea control skills will be tested to the max. There are so many methods of getting rid of fleas...
Which Flea Control method(s) to use?

You can go either way by using either natural flea killers or by opting for a more aggressive alternative... chemical solutions. Both of these flea control methods have pro's and cons. It's really a case of discovering what's right for you, your house or your beloved pet.

I definitely recommend booking an appointment with your local vet. There, you'll be able to get specific information geared towards your individual needs.

You can of course try your own hand at flea control and save quite a bit of money on professional services. The choice is always yours.

My Personal Flea Control Tip

So, your beloved pet has fleas! First course of action... Don't panic, you're not alone with this problem. And you certainly won't find yourself short of anti-flea solutions.

Right now, you're probably really worried, almost to the point of frustration at the very sight of your pet itching like crazy as fleas settle down to a healthy meal of fresh, warm blood.

What to do?

Where do I go?

And which product is the best for darling pet?

I've faced the very same questions and after trying umpteen different products as a pet owner, the one that really stood out from the rest (in terms of results), was Advantage Flea Control.

Enough has been said, written and publicized about Advantage Flea Control without me having to blow the trumpet also.

In short, when faced with the challenge of controlling fleas on your pet, I highly recommend you give Advantage a try.

Dog Flea Control

2009-04-04T21:30:00.001+01:00

Dog flea control and management requires an integrated approach. For effective treatment both the host animal and the environment must be treated at the same time. Control of fleas on the pet generally requires the use of insecticides. Although flea combs can remove some fleas, combing should be thought of as a method for detecting fleas rather than removing them.

If an animal is to be treated for other conditions besides fleas, such as expression of anal glands, these procedures should be done before the insecticide application to minimize insecticide contact with interior mucosal membranes.

A wide range of insecticides are available for flea control. The pyrethrins and pyrethroids have the lowest mammalian toxicity. These insecticides come in many formulations including shampoo, dust and powder, mousse, aerosol and non-aerosol mist or spray, dip, spot-on, roll-on and collar. Organophosphate drugs for oral use are available, by prescription from veterinarians.

In addition, some on-animal formulations contain insect growth regulators (IGRs) that kill flea eggs on the animal. *Remember to read all insecticide labels, and to follow all precautions and dose directions.

The insecticides used for flea control vary widely in toxicity and efficacy. Considerations for selecting a formulation include the size, weight and age of the animal, as well as the species.

For example, greyhounds are a very chemical-sensitive breed and are more sensitive to insecticide products than most other dogs. Do not attach flea collars or flea-killing medallions on these dogs. Do not use chlorpyrifos, DDVP, methoxychior or malathion on greyhounds.

Cats are more sensitive to organophosphate insecticides than dogs. In addition, cats groom themselves more than dogs and are more likely to ingest an insecticide by licking the residue from their fur.

Kittens and puppies, because of their smaller size, require a lower dose than adult animals. Young animals may also require treatment with insecticides of lower toxicity than adult animals. Pregnant or nursing animals may be sensitive to certain insecticides.

Several products are available for especially sensitive pets and other situations that require lower risk chemical measures. These include the citrus peel extracts d-limonene and linalool, sorptive dusts such as silica aerogel or diatomaceous earth, the insect growth regulators fenoxycarb or methoprene, and insecticidal soaps.

Theses words may seem foreign to you, but you can always consult a veterinarian if you have questions. They will have accurate information on insecticides and their use for flea control on pet animals. The insecticide label should also contain accurate information on how a particular formulation of an insecticide should and should not be used. *Remember to read these labels before opening the container!

When using insecticides for flea control, remember that the applicator, namely your pet and you can be exposed to the insecticides several times. The label may call for the use of gloves and other protective equipment during application and suggest the pet not be handled with unprotected hands until the treatment dries. All personal protective equipment listed on the label must be worn. As a minimum aspect, chemical-resistant gloves, apron and goggles should be worn while mixing insecticides and during application to prevent insecticide contact with the skin.

The working area should be appropriate for containment of the pesticide and should be resistant to caustic materials. A stainless steel preparation table and stainless steel or ceramic tub are ideal. Also, certain parts of the pet’s body (such as the eyes) may be sensitive to the insecticides and must be shielded during application. When using flea “bombs” (aerosol cans with a self-releasing mechanism), follow all the precautions and remove the pets from the area being treated. For your information, using excessive aerosols is illegal and may cause fires and even explosions.

The other important part of an integrated flea management program is to control larval fleas in the habitat away from the animal. This can be achieved either mechanically or with insecticides. Mechanical or physical control of flea larvae involves removal and laundering of animal bedding and thorough cleaning of areas frequented by the animal.

Using a vacuum with a beater bar and immediately disposing of the waste bag effectively eliminates up to half of the larvae and eggs in carpet. You should also launder animal bedding and thoroughly clean areas the animal frequents and dispose of the vacuum waste bag after every cleaning.

Do not put insecticides in the vacuum cleaner bag. This is an illegal and dangerous use of the products and can harm you, your family and pets by creating dusts or fumes that could be inhaled.

Another mechanical control measure is carpet shampooing or steam cleaning. This rids the carpet of blood feces, an important food for the larvae, and may also remove eggs and larvae. In outdoor areas, cleaning up the places where animals like to rest reduces eggs and larvae and removes blood pellets. In yards and kennels, flea larvae can be found in cracks at wall-floor junctions and in floor crevices. These areas must be thoroughly cleaned and then maintained to prevent another infestation.

Recently several ultrasound devices, including collars, have entered the market claiming to control or repel fleas. Several scientific studies have investigated these devices and found absolutely no basis for the manufacture’s claims. Ultrasonic devices do not control flea populations. It is unnecessary for you to buy these equipments.

Chemical control of flea larvae can be achieved with insecticides. Organophosphate, carbamate, pyrethrin, pyrethroid and growth regulator (hormone mimic) insecticides as well as certain minerals are available for flea control in the environment These insecticides are formulated as coarse sprays, foggers and dusts or are micro-encapsulated.

All but the growth regulators kill flea larvae on contact. Insect growth regulators prevent flea larvae from developing to the adult stage. Growth regulators may also inhibit egg hatching. A good flea larval control program will incorporate sanitation, contact insecticides and growth regulators for good results.

Flea management requires patience, time and careful planning. Vacuuming and cleaning areas frequented by dogs and cats should be routine. The same applies to kennels. If an infestation occurs, insecticide applications on the animals or in the environment may have to be repeated according to the label. The need for retreatment and time intervals between insecticide treatments will vary with the kind of insecticide and the formulation.

Flea control will not be successful if only one approach is used. The animal and its environment must be treated simultaneously, and that treatment must be combined with regular sanitation efforts. Read all product labels carefully. Do not overexpose your pet by combining too many treatments at one time, such as a collar, a shampoo and a dust. Pesticides have a cumulative effect. Be aware of each product’s toxicity and do not endanger yourself or the animal by using excessive amounts of any one product or by combining products.

To end, please remember that flea control will only be successful when you treat both your pet and the environment simultaneously. Hope this article is useful in helping you manage flea problems.

Home Pet Flea Control

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Flea control can be a very hard thing to do especially if you live in areas where fleas are largely populated. Weather has a lot to do with fleas and trying to keep them outdoors and off of your pets can be very challenging.

You can try many of the products available to rid your pets of fleas and then find that you still have the problem. Fleas will lay their eggs in your carpet and on furniture and bedding that your pet happens to lie on.

The first step in flea control is to rid your pet of these blood sucking pests. Talk with your veterinarian to find out the best products available. You can have your pet dipped; buy flea collars, and other products that will eliminate the fleas from your pet.

Now, that your pet is flea free, how do you get rid of the fleas inside your home? You should now vacuum your entire home including any furniture that your pet has laid on. Once you vacuumed, be sure to throw the vacuum cleaner bag out immediately. The bag is probably full of fleas and you do not want to take the chance of them somehow finding their way out of the vacuum. If your pet has a pet bed, wash it completely or discard it and buy a new one. Any other bedding, towels, and rugs that your pet has been on also need to be cleaned.

Sometimes, the above steps may not be enough to rid your home of fleas. You may need to invest in an insecticide that can be used on carpets, baseboards, and cracks. Fleas can hide in very small places and if you have one flea, soon you will have many. Before using any type of insecticide, talk with your veterinarian to be sure that it is safe to use around your pet. You do not want your pet to ingest any type of toxic chemicals that could make them sick.

Frontline Plus For Flea Control

2009-03-29T01:56:00.000+01:00

When it comes to controlling fleas and ticks, FRONTLINE Brand Products are the #1 recommendation of veterinarians for flea and tick control for dogs and cats.

FRONTLINE Plus offers long-lasting flea and tick control, killing up to 100% of fleas on your pet within 18 hours and up to 100% of ticks on your pet within 48 hours. Best of all, research confirms that FRONTLINE products work for an entire month to help keep your pet flea-free.

Information about Frontline plus
Frontline Plus provides protection against fleas and ticks, and contains a special ingredient to kill flea eggs and larvae. By stopping the development of new fleas, Frontline Plus provides the most complete flea and tick protection available. Frontline Plus kills 100% of fleas and ticks within 48 hours, including many ticks that transmit dangerous diseases that can affect other pets and humans.

Frontline Plus Flea Control has been formulated for use on puppies and kittens from eight weeks of age and is safe for use on pregnant and lactating animals. It is a water-resistant flea medication, so it continues to kill fleas even after shampooing, swimming, rain or exposure to sunlight.

Frontline Plus features

Kills fleas for at least one month
Controls and treats Flea Allergy Dermatitis
Kills all known ticks for at least one month
Water-resistant
Easy to administer spot-on application
Each tube contains Fipronil & S-Methoprene

Flea Control for Dogs & Cats. Pet Flea & Tick Control

Fleas and ticks affect most dogs and cats, and the problems they cause can range from irritating to life-threatening. We carry a range of different products for preventing and controlling these parasites so that you and your pet can remain happy and healthy. The following products have been carefully selected to ensure that you are purchasing quality medication at an affordable price.

Using Insecticide To Eliminate Flea Infestations

2009-03-29T00:43:00.000+01:00

There are essentially 2 different types of insecticide used to prevent or eliminate flea infestations:

Adulticides
To remove adult fleas from your pet
Adulticides are designed to kill adult fleas on your pet. Most work within 24 hours. However, freshly-caught fleas (known as 'hitchhiker fleas') can breed rapidly and may have the opportunity to lay eggs before they die. This is why scientists the world over agree that the most effective way to prevent or eliminate fleas is to use adulticides in combination with Insect Growth Regulators. This is known as Integrated Flea Control.

Insect Growth Regulators
To eliminate flea eggs in the home

Insect Growth Regulators have been developed especially to target the egg stage of the flea life cycle. Quite simply, they are designed to prevent flea eggs from hatching. So, if your cat or dog does shed any flea eggs around your home, they'll just die and get sucked up by the vacuum cleaner. And all without the need to spray the house, and wash all the bedding.

There are different ways of practicing Integrated Flea Control, depending on the level of control required for the pet, its 'natural' exposure to fleas, the level of control that you want to achieve, and the type of product you want to use.

How to Control Flea in Cats

2009-01-29T04:12:00.000+01:00

Controlling Fleas is Critical to Keeping Your Cat Healthy

Uncontrollable itching and scratching. Allergies. Tapeworm. Hair loss. Major discomfort. Even anemia and more serious health problems. Fleas hurt your cat.

Flea Prevention is the Best Method

Prevention is your absolute best method of controlling this parasite. The two best ways to prevent infestation are excellent nutrition and keeping your cat's environment clean.

No matter how much you directly treat your cat for fleas, if you don't treat her environment and keep it clean, you won't be able to eliminate all the fleas in your home and on your cat.

Understanding the life cycle of the flea can help explain how cleanliness can reduce and eliminate this problem on your cat and in your home.

If your best flea prevention efforts don't work and you find yourself with a problem anyway, treatment and control are your next steps.

You have a number of options available to you. Most options can be classified as either conventional methods to eliminate fleas or natural flea control methods.

Indoor Cats Need Protection, Too!

Flea control is critical for all cats, even those cats who never go outside. As a matter of fact, your indoor cat and cat environment can have an even worse flea problem than your outdoor cat.

One flea can lay up to 20 eggs at a time and at their worse, they can lay eggs every day! So by the time you realize you have fleas, your home may already be severely infested.

Weak Cats Have Worse Flea Problems

And if you end up with a flea problem, your healthy cat will be in a stronger position to deal with your flea control efforts.

To keep your cat healthy, feed him a diet of the highest quality cat food you can afford, make sure he gets regular exercise with safe and interactive cat toys, and keep his environment clean.

Add regular grooming to these preventative measures and you should be able to keep your cat in excellent health and flea-free.

How to Tell if Your Cat Has Fleas

But just because you don't see the body, don't assume there aren't any fleas. Fleas go through various life cycle stages, and they can be present in your home in different (almost invisible) stages.

Inspecting your outdoor cats for fleas should be a regular part of your flea control efforts.

How To Get Rid of Fleas

If you find yourself with a flea problem, you'll probably need to try a couple of different flea control methods before you get rid of all of the fleas on your cat and in your home.

In addition to treating your cat and your home, you may also have to treat your yard.

Choosing a safe, as well as effective, method of flea control is critical.

Different levels of danger accompany all flea control products and methods and you should choose only the safest and most effective method for your cat and you.

Help for Older Cats

Check the label to make sure that the flea control product is safe for older cats and follow the directions carefully. If you are unsure, consult your trusted veterinarian for advice.

Pest Control for Fleas

2009-01-28T23:23:00.000+01:00

Vacuuming of carpets - it is essential for carpets and timber floor areas to be thoroughly vacuumed especially in low traffic areas - under furniture - around edges of rooms - hallways - concrete pathways - before commencement of pest control flea insecticidal treatment.

Insecticide treatment - in severe cases there may be no practical alternative to insecticide treatment of likely habitat areas - particularly low traffic areas of carpeting - around the edges of timber flooring - dog or cat resting areas.

FUMAPEST uses a low hazard IGR synthetic pyrethroid insecticide - a light spray to carpet areas and upon drying it is brushed further into the carpet pile with a straw broom.

Insect Growth Regulator IGR - a ultra low hazard insecticide that acts specifically to inhibit development of the flea at the larva stage of their life cycle. The IGR interfers with the flea moultnig process. Fleas moult several times from larvae to adulthood.

The flea larva is a small "grub" that lives in carpet, in cracks or joins of timber flooring and in soil areas. A readily accessible supply of organic matter, such as shed skin flakes from humans, is essential for it's development. This is the critical point in the life cycle of the flea.

With a heavy infestation of adult fleas the affected rooms should be fumigated with a similar insecticide dispensed through a fogging machine. This will provide immediate relief (like a flea "bomb") but with not kill the larva or egg sacs. The carpets and other areas should be treated as noted above with an IGR synthetic pyrethroid insecticide.

To help prevent reinfestation we recommend the home owner regularly vacuum carpets; regularly wash your dog or cat with shampoo containing a flea control product; and restrict access of your dog or cat to any sub-floor areas, particularly during the humid summer months. If your dog or cat regularly plays with stray dogs or cats then the transfer of fleas eggs is virtually certain during the hot humid months of the year.